Introduction and a couple of questions

V

vertuas

Forum user
Aug 11, 2014
45
0
Pontefract
Hello everyone,

After many years being a fan of the Cougar, I was forced into looking for new car for 6 months, when my freelander broke down.

After looking around for something reasonably priced, I came across a nice 1999 2.5l V6 in silver. The car is in very good condition considering it's age.

There are a couple if issues with the car but nothing major.

1. The fuel pump is noisy.
2. Tracking needs setting up properly
3. It hunts on tick over and surges a little whilst driving (related to fuel pump maybe)

So I have read that the fuel pump is accessed from under the boot, and may need some modification to the floor to get it out. That's all good, but how do i release the rear seat base to get to the pump?

By the way loving the car :)

Thanks in advance, for any responses
 
Hi and welcome

Remove the rear seat squab, remove grommet, make the hole bigger (tin snips), there's your fuel pump!

I've written a detailed how to in our subscribers section ;)

Steve
 
Pump comes out by enlarging the aperture in the floor.

Could try a touch of "percussive maintenance" on it first, personally known it to work a few times.
 
lol pid_16v it was a typo, i didn't notice until you mentioned it. What can i say, i'm talented.......

How does the seat squab some out? (I haven't subscribed yet, so i can't see the instructions).
 
vertuas said:
lol pid_16v it was a typo, i didn't notice until you mentioned it. What can i say, i'm talented.......

How does the seat squab some out? (I haven't subscribed yet, so i can't see the instructions).
Click to expand...

I'll see to the title (y)
To remove the squab: Push back from the centre and lift. It might need a good old tug/yank :eek: to get it to come up, and the chances are, the holding clips at each end will crack but these are pennys from ford dealers.
 
i'm hoping that it has been before and the floor is already modified. :)

I called the stealers on the off chance that the recall was never done, and I could get a free new pump, but they no longer have records going back that far :(

They only supply the new pump and sender assembly as one unit. its about £550 new.

Local motor factor can get just the pump, i guess around £60 as per online suppliers.

Will take a look in the morning in day light

Thanks for your help guys, will update you.
 
Thanks for the welcome message guys, already enjoying the car. will no doubt enjoy it more once the niggles are sorted.

Just out of curiosity, I know that for motorsport supply parts to put the modular V8 and mustang rear end on the Focus. Does this also fit on the Cougar? :)

- - - Updated - - -

Fuel pump located, floor has not yet been modified, didn't break any clips :)

Heres the weird thing, the engine is hunting when ticking over and surging whilst driving.

The noise from the pump get louder on a surge and quieter on a power loss. Also, i notice last night that the battery light flashed on and off at about 4,000 rpm up wards.

Could the surging be caused by a dodgy regulator on the alternator?

Think i might crack the volt meter out.......
 
vertuas said:
Thanks for the welcome message guys, already enjoying the car. will no doubt enjoy it more once the niggles are sorted.

Just out of curiosity, I know that for motorsport supply parts to put the modular V8 and mustang rear end on the Focus. Does this also fit on the Cougar? :)

- - - Updated - - -

Fuel pump located, floor has not yet been modified, didn't break any clips :)

Heres the weird thing, the engine is hunting when ticking over and surging whilst driving.

The noise from the pump get louder on a surge and quieter on a power loss. Also, i notice last night that the battery light flashed on and off at about 4,000 rpm up wards.

Could the surging be caused by a dodgy regulator on the alternator?

Think i might crack the volt meter out.......
Click to expand...

If you are getting the battery light flashing at 4000rpm, then this is a sign of the alternator needing to be changed. There are lots of posts about it on here, so do a quick search. They are a pain in the bum to change too, just to give you a heads up on that one.
 
alternator change requires 3ft of extension bars and a universal socket to reach the top bolt, You will need to remove both front wheels as the top bolt is only accessible from the passenger side, the rear precat makes this job awkward, drivers side you will need to undo the top bolt on the drop link and I find it helps to undo the trackrod end aswell, you will then need to remove the access panels, remove the serpentine belt from the alternator pulley then remove alternator top and bottom bolt, there is enough cable on the regulator that you can spin the alternator round before disconnecting the 3 cables, be prepared for scraped knuckles (y)
 
Try a service before ripping the pump out.
Plugs, air filter, fuel filter and a MAF clean are the main things to sort before replacing more expensive bits.
Maybe plug leads too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.