seafoam cleaning

Ha ha mate , that's why I'm asking..... *gulp* oh well the k@n air filter won't hurt I'm ordering soon and then a remap!

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Starting to get the bug now Lol , want a rear strut putting on also eventually!
 
Ha ha mate , that's why I'm asking..... *gulp* oh well the k@n air filter won't hurt I'm ordering soon and then a remap!

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Starting to get the bug now Lol , want a rear strut putting on also eventually!


Seafoam is generally harmless. It does make your engine surge while it does its thing, but on its own it won't kill your motor.

But it is a very thorough detergent, so it's possible that if your various seals are marginal - holding because they're coked - they will let go and you'll end up with a leak. It's a risk, in other words.

Do buy a rear strut brace though. You will never have a reason to regret that.
 
Ha ha mate , that's why I'm asking..... *gulp* oh well the k@n air filter won't hurt I'm ordering soon and then a remap!

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Starting to get the bug now Lol , want a rear strut putting on also eventually!
Don't waste an awful lot of money on a remap, a standard engine will be mostly placebo effect, spend the cash on renewing worn shock absorbers, bushings or a brake-upgrade.

As I'm regularly told, don't bodge it, you need to physically clean the engine internals, we all know every chemical cleaner or sealant instantly destroys an engine...

By some on here anyway.

Never used Seafoam myself but have consistently had good results with 10K Boost.
 
Thanks for the input , I'm on the fence about remap , if I can find it at cheap price it may be worth it , any little gain is I suppose! Cheers.
 
It learns it's own parameters within a range, they are learning systems but they trim settings based over a number of drivecycles - I'm a great defender of these systems, one of these over a mechanical ignition system or "modern" systems that require interrogation for "everything".

This was a pretty robust system for the time, smart enough to sort itself out and dumb enough to be able to still diagnose without expensive hardware; unlike "old fashioned" systems the car will start in the cold and doesn't need constant tinkering.

A remap is a new base-map though so it's not true it'll forget mapping eventually however with natrually aspirated petrol engines the tweaks you can make are limited at best, essentially you can either hold the injectors open longer or advance the timing.... That's it.

The advance is limited by the fuel RON and injector span is limited by engine speeds and keeping the mixture stochiometic, so the gains are quite limited compared to forced-induction where you get a host of extra parameters to adjust. Diesel relies on "knock" so advancing diesel within reason isn't as detrimental as piston melting experienced on petrol engine.

Petrol engines generally are tuned from the factory to be not far from "the sweet spot", and why finding two identical natrually aspirated petrol engines supplied with different tune levels are vanishingly rare - turbo (especially turbo-Diesel) models its pretty common.
 
Indeed. The Mini One and Cooper are one such example however, and it's achieved by limiting the throttle opening on the One to 67% - so it's not a real difference in tune at all.

I own one of the few naturally aspirated engines which do react extremely well to mapping, but that's only because factory mapping was terrible both for power and emissions but it was still powerful enough that nobody cared. With all proper volume selling manufacturers concerned with emissions levels, there really isn't any such thing as a badly mapped mass-produced car.
 
Does anybody want the 12" explanation? I have a guide I wrote a few years ago for another forum I'm willing to post up, but don't want to appear like I'm teaching members to suck eggs.


That's interesting Jamie! I didn't know that about he Mini (Penta engine I'm guessing?) I'll also go out on a limb and suggest it might be a big V8 in the case of poor tuning!