about to buy

Richie3204

New user
Mar 20, 2016
2
1
Gateshead
Hi guys
i am going to be buying a cougar in the next week or 2 wondering if anybody could give me some pointers on what to watch out for any help much appreciated.
 
Hello and welcome aboard Richie. There are some good cougs out there and there will be a few dogs. Check the sills for rust, also check the front wishbones as these can be expensive to replace. There are a few other things which I can't think of right now, but I'm sure the guys will be around soon to offer you some further advice. Best of luck finding a good one. Cheers, Tim.
 
Hello Richie and welcome to the forum.

Rusting sills and rear subframes are the main things to be looking at.
Mechanical parts can be sourced fairly easily but if the dreaded tinworm has got a hold that can be more problematical.
 
As Tim (and Andy while I was typing this! :geek: ) has mentioned, most important thing to check is the state of the sills, floor and rear subframe - all are prone to rust. Get a solid one and you're sorted. Everything else can be sorted with a weekend of bacon, tea, beer and UKC folk (y)

Wishbones are not as expensive these days as pattern ones are now available. If it has a sunroof, make sure it fully opens and closes.

Good luck with your search (there are a couple for sale in the "For Sale" section if I remember correctly) (y)
 
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Other than the afore-mentioned rust, If it's a V6 take it out and make sure you rev it above 4.5K, if the battery light comes on she'll need a new alternator....pig of a job!
 
Other than the afore-mentioned rust, If it's a V6 take it out and make sure you rev it above 4.5K, if the battery light comes on she'll need a new alternator....pig of a job!


You've just reminded me, since no one else mentioned it...

Your prospective car assuming she's a V6? Drive her from cold. Insist on it. When the temperature needle gets up to the middle, your water is up to temperature. Maybe stop her and smell what's still puffing out of the exhaust. There shouldn't be oil smells, but she might be a but...fuelly.

Now go for a blat and get the oil up to temperature too. A good ten minutes. If she starts sagging after 3750RPM, its Inlet Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) is screwed.

The Duratec V6 is very robust, but not cheap to fix properly. If she's burning oil out the pipe, walk away. But if she's just throwing it overboard, that's not so much of a problem. Stoopid gaskets.

If the IMRC is screwed, (lack of performanc over 3750RPM) just ask for some money off. It's fixable.

But if it's smoky, sitting in a patch of its own sauce or noisy, forget it.

My reasoning is this: these are very cheap cars and they shouldn't give you any stress at all if they've been looked after. A dodgy one should be very obvious.
 
provided it is solid and got no rust holes, pay close attention to the sills (especially nearside rear) the rest can be replaced cheap enough if it has a fault, even a good second hand engine will only set you back a couple of hundred and that's including the cost of Bacon and Tea for the MFSM'ers (y)
 
Thanks Wil. :)

provided it is solid and got no rust holes, pay close attention to the sills (especially nearside rear) the rest can be replaced cheap enough if it has a fault, even a good second hand engine will only set you back a couple of hundred and that's including the cost of Bacon and Tea for the MFSM'ers (y)

I agree with you Paul; we know from experience that with the right team, a new engine or gearbox is a weekend's work and maybe 300 quid if you figure in fluids, clutch and a slave cylinder.

And I'd certainly spend that on Tiger, without question.

But unless I already had a reliable daily driver and was just looking for a project, there's no way I'd buy one in that condition. There's still quite a few gems out there so it's not necessary. I mean, the rest of the car would have to be absolutely perfect.
 
I guess buy the best you can afford applies here.

Definitely this. Though given the age of the cars, I would add; "Buy the car that's the best you can afford in an aspect you can't fix yourself."

In other words, if you're no good with engines but you're great with bodywork, buy a scruffy one with a full service history and no funny noises.

Ironically, I didn't follow that advice when I bought Tiger. But then, I had a reliable daily driver and was looking for a project, so...
 
Also do a little bit of homework for example there is a nice looking C2 for sale on auto trader i was looking at , looks in great condition but when i searched its MOT history then the same old faults kept popping up-rear sub frame, brakes , suspension , engine light etc so instead of fixing these faults they had just been masked over to pass the MOT every year

you can check mot history here
https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history
 
Also do a little bit of homework for example there is a nice looking C2 for sale on auto trader i was looking at , looks in great condition but when i searched its MOT history then the same old faults kept popping up-rear sub frame, brakes , suspension , engine light etc so instead of fixing these faults they had just been masked over to pass the MOT every year

you can check mot history here
https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

Brilliant Mike, I wish I'd remembered that too.

Something to consider when an AutoTrader advert hides the registration...