Colour

You wont be able to match the paint. Take off some actual body part, for example side mirror trim, and take it to the paint shop. They will match the color, and will fill the spray can for you.
 
Paint code for Silver Frost is TU.

I seem to remember that there was indeed only ever one paint code for it, but I've actually seen three different shades of it (two of them on one car - Pauls!). I imagine this is probably not a difference in the paint though; it's more likely down to how the car was stored and treated. So depending on that...

You wont be able to match the paint. Take off some actual body part, for example side mirror trim, and take it to the paint shop. They will match the color, and will fill the spray can for you.

...That may end up being true. However, getting a paintshop to match the colour could work out quite expensive, especially if the quantity is small. I would shop around for quotes.
 
Chris, TS is also listed for Silver Frost but not in relation to the Cougar??

I think some of the difference in shades is down to the material it's applied to and how the paint reacts over time.
Assuming my MS Designs spoiler was a factory or dealer fit at the time of purchase(the history points to that being the case) then it has been painted for as long as the rest of the car but definitely 'looks' to be a different colour now.
 
Chris, TS is also listed for Silver Frost but not in relation to the Cougar??

I didn't realise that. Might explain a few things though.

I think some of the difference in shades is down to the material it's applied to and how the paint reacts over time.

I know from grim experience how true that is. I'm a model-maker and even with the same basecoat, a paint can look different depending on whether it's on plastic, metal, wood, filler... I think in part that it's the texture and the way it reflects the light, and also how translucent the material is, as well as the typer of primer that the material forces you to use.
 
I guess that's why my red Citroen was more pink on the plastic bits!
There are other reasons of course, but this is the wrong thread for that:LOL:
 
Dont know about uk, but here in lithuania we have a lot if car paint shops who match the color for free and gives you the qty you need with no extra charge, and no qty limitations, i dont believe that you cant do that in uk. Over the years colors fade, and newly painted body parts will stand out in certain lighting conditions when not matched to the old paint correctly, trust me, i had three cars, and all of them were fully repainted, including cougar. Body work of the car is the most important aspect for me :)
 
Hope they're better than the B&Q 'paint matching' service. Stevie Wonder could've have got as close with a Dulux colour chart and a dart gun.
 
It is possible to get a near perfect theoretical paint code match. The problem in getting a physical match is enormous. Over the few years i have been painting, i've found through experience that silver frost basecoat in particular needs to be sprayed at a lower than normal pressure at a bigger distance from the surface than normal and at a thinner rate than normal, which in turn means more coats than normal. Add to this the conditions: Air temperature and humidity, extraction and even the gun type. I always used to spray at 60psi but found that i got a much better match by dropping the pressure to 40psi and using the routines above. Up the pressure for the clear laquer coats. All the above is pointless if your using rattle cans, although paint temperature and can pressure can be altered by heating or cooling the can to suit, but a 400ml can doesnt give much room for experimentation, oh and please don't put the can in the oven to warm it :LOL:
 
All the above is pointless if your using rattle cans, although paint temperature and can pressure can be altered by heating or cooling the can to suit, but a 400ml can doesnt give much room for experimentation, oh and please don't put the can in the oven to warm it :LOL:

When using rattle cans (usually for car models, or Halfords Appliance Gloss White when doing aircraft) I warm the cans under the hot tap.

The trick is to keep turning the can under the stream, and thoroughly shaking it every 30 seconds or so for even heating. Ideal temperature is around 40C.

If you feel vibration from the can, the propellant is boiling. Throw it outside as far as you can, and run in the opposite direction.
 
I did try to get the silver frost from Halfords, they couldn't find it and came up with something close, I did get it in the end, they tried looked up US Ford and found it, its good enough, I did some scratches with it and you would never know, I don't know about doing a larger area with a can.
I have some light covers to do, so we will see.