Design drawings...?

Herak

Herak

Well-known user
Apr 23, 2014
347
163
Bradistan
I've googled until my router started smoking, but still can't find design/engineering drawings for the rear subframe/crossmember on the Cougar.

I'm hoping to compare it to the MK3 Mondeo subframe which seems a very close match, and also has a plentiful supply at decent rates.

Specifically, I'm after bush centres, and where/how they sit in relation to the trailing arm mountings, as well as depth and width of the arm mounting points.
 
Herak said:
I've googled until my router started smoking, but still can't find design/engineering drawings for the rear subframe/crossmember on the Cougar.

I'm hoping to compare it to the MK3 Mondeo subframe which seems a very close match, and also has a plentiful supply at decent rates.

Specifically, I'm after bush centres, and where/how they sit in relation to the trailing arm mountings, as well as depth and width of the arm mounting points.
Click to expand...
probably because youre looking for something that if it was available, came in the form of a book that either someone paid money for or was given in a shop.
 
Herak said:
I've googled until my router started smoking, but still can't find design/engineering drawings for the rear subframe/crossmember on the Cougar.

I'm hoping to compare it to the MK3 Mondeo subframe which seems a very close match, and also has a plentiful supply at decent rates.

Specifically, I'm after bush centres, and where/how they sit in relation to the trailing arm mountings, as well as depth and width of the arm mounting points.
Click to expand...

I've had the same thoughts in the past regarding this.
Maybe the mk3 subby could be adapted to fit.
I reckon the only way would be to buy one and compare them.
 
Procomm said:
Mk3 is completely different you would have to modify the chassis to accept
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They are certainly different paul...but not completely different.
Maybe it could be adapted to fit more easily than fabricating a Cougar specific one from scratch is the point of this post i think.
 
dogsbody said:
I've had the same thoughts in the past regarding this.
Maybe the mk3 subby could be adapted to fit.
I reckon the only way would be to buy one and compare them.
Click to expand...
That's why I've spent weeks trying to find the drawings - I bought a mk3 subby for about 30 quid. Bushes need doing, but it's practically mint otherwise. I think something about the mk3 underside prevented a lot of the exposure the mk2 and Cougar suffered from. Mk3s aren't a vast amount younger and yet show none of the same corrosion issues.

Yeah, you can buy Cougar subframes - for the same price as 10 mk3 subframes because Ford abandoned us, and the blue oval suffers terribly from profiteering on parts. Subframes are almost as expensive as a replacement car.

Sent from Tapatalk
 
Herak said:
That's why I've spent weeks trying to find the drawings - I bought a mk3 subby for about 30 quid. Bushes need doing, but it's practically mint otherwise. I think something about the mk3 underside prevented a lot of the exposure the mk2 and Cougar suffered from. Mk3s aren't a vast amount younger and yet show none of the same corrosion issues.

Yeah, you can buy Cougar subframes - for the same price as 10 mk3 subframes because Ford abandoned us, and the blue oval suffers terribly from profiteering on parts. Subframes are almost as expensive as a replacement car.

Sent from Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Looking at it in person, I think the only real difference is the width of the housing for the trailing arms. Which if the same length as ours is a bonus as the mk3 trailing arms are much better items.

Sent from Tapatalk
 
Herak said:
Looking at it in person, I think the only real difference is the width of the housing for the trailing arms. Which if the same length as ours is a bonus as the mk3 trailing arms are much better items.

Sent from Tapatalk
Click to expand...
where does the u shaped control arm go?
the subby in the ebay listing looks like 2 of the toe arms on each side.

If thats the case and you just adapt those arms to work on our cars you could just use rods and heim joints like the adjustable toe arms on Jane.
 
rooster2100 said:
where does the u shaped control arm go?
the subby in the ebay listing looks like 2 of the toe arms on each side.

If thats the case and you just adapt those arms to work on our cars you could just use rods and heim joints like the adjustable toe arms on Jane.
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Yes, with an exception - the mk3 uses solid rod type arms vs the sword blade rear arms we have. As far as I can tell, all 4 are identical, and readily available. Just depends on the lengths being correct, or you'd have some outrageous camber.. making them adjustable only goes so far towards fixing it if the lengths are vastly different..


(edit, having looked at the MK3 subby Quicksilver posted... Looks like the front/rear trailing arms are different lengths)
 
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Herak said:
Yes, with an exception - the mk3 uses solid rod type arms vs the sword blade rear arms we have. As far as I can tell, all 4 are identical, and readily available. Just depends on the lengths being correct, or you'd have some outrageous camber.. making them adjustable only goes so far towards fixing it if the lengths are vastly different..


(edit, having looked at the MK3 subby Quicksilver posted... Looks like the front/rear trailing arms are different lengths)
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ehhh the sword blade kind y'all have lol
8f81f42410c28441e4eaebce59096090.jpg

Those arms both being that would be amazing for adjustment.
 
That's like a scratchcard that reveals 100k, 100k, then random junk. You're a ... "dungeon dweller" for it :LOL:
 
Herak said:
Just depends on the lengths being correct, or you'd have some outrageous camber..
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Toe-out as well, surely?

If the front one was correct but the back one not, that would pull the hub in and down toward the rear, wouldn't it? I mean, assuming you could actually get the bolts in?

Opposite true if the arm is too long of course.
 
Mako said:
Toe-out as well, surely?

If the front one was correct but the back one not, that would pull the hub in and down toward the rear, wouldn't it? I mean, assuming you could actually get the bolts in?

Opposite true if the arm is too long of course.
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I don't think it would Mate. If the Front arm is correct, Being that it's lower in the suspension would keep the Camber from changing. The blade one only effects Toe same as the Tie rod ends on the front.
The Ushaped control arm or whatever you may call it only effects Camber. similar to the ball joint on the front wishbones. And just for giggles. The trailing arm or the one that points straight forward short or longer would be your caster adjustment.
 
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