I may be wrong guys but if your not changing the rear pads you wont need a caliper wind back tool
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Driving without MOT. Legal or Really Bad Idea?
- Thread starter Relliott6879
- Start date
If your thinking about Sorning car, it generally not advicable if less then 30 days
was reading it on the form for surrendering tax, and Sorning at same time, perhaps it's due to having to post it in, not sure if you retax whilst in post they then receive the sorn notice they will then Sorn the car, if you can do on line should be ok, had problem in past over this
was reading it on the form for surrendering tax, and Sorning at same time, perhaps it's due to having to post it in, not sure if you retax whilst in post they then receive the sorn notice they will then Sorn the car, if you can do on line should be ok, had problem in past over this
Steve, calipers - check, spacers/washers - check, pads - check, fluid - will ensure it's checked by Thursday! (DOT 4, I assume?)
Will you be needing overnight accommodation? No problem if you are, I just need to get you a bed ready is all.
Will you be needing overnight accommodation? No problem if you are, I just need to get you a bed ready is all.
If you can get to me for the springs on mon or tues steve and you dont win your wind back tool ive got one you can borrow mate and any other toys you might need 
Rich did you want a tow bar for bugger all hehe two birds one stone and all that
Rich did you want a tow bar for bugger all
hehe two birds one stone and all that
Rich did you want a tow bar for bugger all
Kind offer Dave, but I'll pass!
Accommodation not required we need to smash this in the evening mate.
Dave as per PM I won't be ready til next weekend earliest for the springs mate but thanks for the offer all the same.
For what it's worth, I replaced my rear pads (and one disc - other thread to follow...) earlier this week. The pistons wound back in with a pair of pliers by pressing the jaws into the oblong grooves on the piston face. They turned with no major hassle at all - no slipping and didn't even leave a mark.
The only trouble I had with winding them was that the piston boot was sticking (corrosion) and had to be freed up before I started turning.
So unless the caliper is close to siezing, I'm not sure that there's any real benefit to spending money on a specialist tool. Or maybe I'm just a hack. But it worked!
The only trouble I had with winding them was that the piston boot was sticking (corrosion) and had to be freed up before I started turning.
So unless the caliper is close to siezing, I'm not sure that there's any real benefit to spending money on a specialist tool. Or maybe I'm just a hack.
But it worked!Mixed success today........only changed over one of the handbrake cables as the other was wrong.....
Handbrake now seems really high (although holds the car fine) and despite checking through Tony's thread above and even playing with a dead caliper we could not figure out how the hand brake is supposed to be adjusted????
Adding to the frustration was the fact that whoever worked on Rich's car last has lost his locking wheel nut key, we bought some of those left-handed threaded things from Halfords but they are just far too big to go in the wheel nut recess.
This meant that not only could we not do the front brake swap but had to do the handbrake cable with the wheels attached, is this why we were struggling to find the elusive adjuster?
Handbrake now seems really high (although holds the car fine) and despite checking through Tony's thread above and even playing with a dead caliper we could not figure out how the hand brake is supposed to be adjusted????
Adding to the frustration was the fact that whoever worked on Rich's car last has lost his locking wheel nut key, we bought some of those left-handed threaded things from Halfords but they are just far too big to go in the wheel nut recess.
This meant that not only could we not do the front brake swap but had to do the handbrake cable with the wheels attached, is this why we were struggling to find the elusive adjuster?
what it could be is that the seized handbrake cable could have been holding the piston out slightly to start with and the auto adjuster would have assumed that was its natural resting position and adjusted the pads accordingly, over a bit of time the cable would have held the piston out a little further if handbrake pulled a little harder every now and then, so now you have freed the cable, the piston is retracting fully which mean the brake will need to adjust itself as the piston is now fully retracted,also the handbrake travel is due probably to same lack of adjustment and now the piston goes all the way back causing excess travel, try leaving handbrake off, and pushing brake pedal hard several time you should feel the pedal get a bit higher and the h/brake travel reduce if does start to work then it may just need a little run up and down road to allow it to fully adjust
there is no handbrake adjustment as such as the brake wears the caliper auto adjusts so keeping cable correct,
(there is a little bit of adjustment on the short centre one possibly, but that just to take up the odd bit of wear, can't remember for sure if it is on cougar)
there is no handbrake adjustment as such as the brake wears the caliper auto adjusts so keeping cable correct,
(there is a little bit of adjustment on the short centre one possibly, but that just to take up the odd bit of wear, can't remember for sure if it is on cougar)
Tony, I've just done my rears and had to go through that procedure too, (they were very worn). Leave the handbrake off, pump the brakes a few times, feel the pedal travel shorten, and voila. I don't remember seeing any barrel adjusters on the cables either, but to be fair I didn't really look for them as I didn't need to.
About the locking wheelnut key - have the wheels been off it since we swapped the subframe? If not could the key be in someone's toolkit? Or on Dave's drive still?
About the locking wheelnut key - have the wheels been off it since we swapped the subframe? If not could the key be in someone's toolkit? Or on Dave's drive still?
I was just going to say didn't you change the rear calipers a short while back? So you must have had the lock nut key then.... It's got to be in someone's tool kit by mistake surely.
Not to doubt you guys but has someone not thrown it in your car during the meet.
It might be worth checking everywhere in case it was left on the seat and has rolled under your seat etc or its been dumped in the boot as the person who put it back stores their one there
It might be worth checking everywhere in case it was left on the seat and has rolled under your seat etc or its been dumped in the boot as the person who put it back stores their one there
Rich paid someone to change his rear calipers a couple of weeks ago and this numpty has lost the key.
Been thinking about this since I posted last night, we didn't change the rear pads, obviously, so there should be no need for any adjustment of the caliper
There is no barrel adjuster on the cables, the handbrake holds the car fine, albeit being a bit high, it may well settle down on it's own, its just a little disconcerting that after putting the new cable on the lever was so high, I guess its up to the MOT tester..
Been thinking about this since I posted last night, we didn't change the rear pads, obviously, so there should be no need for any adjustment of the caliper
There is no barrel adjuster on the cables, the handbrake holds the car fine, albeit being a bit high, it may well settle down on it's own, its just a little disconcerting that after putting the new cable on the lever was so high, I guess its up to the MOT tester..
I think you might have an issue steve I believe the allowance is for 6 clicks of travel on the handbrake before it is deemed to have travelled to far for mot purposes.
I'm sure if I'm wrong ill be corrected fairly quickly
I'm sure if I'm wrong ill be corrected fairly quickly
I have a vague recollection that this used to be the case, but the current testing procedures don't specify. The only criteria is that with the handbrake fully applied (exerting the correct amount of force) the handle is not at the very limit of possible travel. (Source: http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_310.htm item 6.b.).
This is presumably to allow for some leeway as the brakes wear, on cars whose handbrakes aren't self-adjusting.
I have decided not to comment or reply to this thread as today, i drove an untaxed, uninsured car from Leicester to Mansfield. It does have a valid MOT though....:angel:
:angel: