Few pics of my old car and new one.

poose

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Jun 19, 2012
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Haydock
My old Cougar, now gone to the great scrap yard in the sky.

lights003.jpg


cougar001.jpg


cougar4.jpg


cougar1.jpg


And now my new one.

cougar008.jpg


cougar007.jpg


cougar006.jpg


cougar005.jpg


cougar004.jpg


Spent two days cleanig in and out, two new front tyres fitted and two to come in morning for back !
Any idea what colour black this is, my paint code dont seem to be listed in motor factors just need name so I can find right one.
 
It's called "Ebony". This link might be useful to you.

And incidentally, I think it's the best colour for them - and that's from someone who owns a Frosty.
 
Dunno yet, just in stages of tidying a few little dings and scratches up and making sure everythings mechanically ok, need to look at brakes as feels like maybe a warped disc as it seems to feel like abs coming on and off as braking. Its got an induction kit on that sounds awesome.
 
Check the ABS reluctor ring(s) before anything else. If it has a crack in it, the ABS will fire at low speed. Annoying, but common and not terminal.
 
Check the ABS reluctor ring(s) before anything else. If it has a crack in it, the ABS will fire at low speed. Annoying, but common and not terminal.

Where do I find them ? Can they be fixed ?
 
Which one on vin plate relates to the colour ?

I haven't actually looked myself, but the site I linked above should tell you. I actually have no idea where the chassis plates are, but a search here should reveal all.

Where do I find them ? Can they be fixed ?

On the wheel hubs. Take the front wheels off and you'll see them - they're ridged rings that spin with the wheel. Here's a pic:


Cracked_ABS_ring.JPG

I have no idea how easy they are to replace on Fords, (on Rovers you just nead to heat them) and I don't know if that's your issue - but it's a good place to start. In my experience, most ABS faults are the rings, the sensor, or crud between the two. I always start with the cheapest fix, so...
 
Yeah seen paint codes but they don't match anything on my vin plate !
 
Yeah seen paint codes but they don't match anything on my vin plate !

I don't want to tell you that you ain't reading it right but... unless it's been resprayed, that's a (beautiful) Ebony you have there, mate. Look for the E.

::EDIT:: The VIN plate in the windscreen will tell you, but in case there's any doubt... Lift the bonnet and look at the embossed plate on the slam panel. The second line down is what you want. Mine starts *VF0HT... where the F means "I am a Silver Frost and half of UKCougar will not like my colour".

What does yours say in that position?
 
The codes in your link Mako are US codes using one letter and a number as the year identifyer.

TIS gives EA or UB as the code for Ebony which should be found in the 6th box down on the left of the VIN plate attached to the front slam panel.
 
Huh - that's interesting.

I wonder if the "*VF..." in the VIN is consistent as well though, if you see what I mean? As in, do all Frostys have an F there?
 
The codes in your link Mako are US codes using one letter and a number as the year identifyer.

TIS gives EA or UB as the code for Ebony which should be found in the 6th box down on the left of the VIN plate attached to the front slam panel.

Cheers mines showing UB that's what was confusing me and it don't take much !o_O
 
Huh - that's interesting.

I wonder if the "*VF..." in the VIN is consistent as well though, if you see what I mean? As in, do all Frostys have an F there?

The colour code isn't included in the long VIN no. it's in the seperate box on the slam panel plate.
 
Huh - that's interesting.

I wonder if the "*VF..." in the VIN is consistent as well though, if you see what I mean? As in, do all Frostys have an F there?

The first three digits following the * are the World Manufactuer Identifier and should read WF0 for Koln in Germany. Although the Cats were made in the US they were designated as European vehicles and thus have a VIN to suit. (y)