My wheels after blow out

as phil said the ones i had of him and had repaired where alot worse and had them repaired been right as rain since i used a place in leeds cost me £30 per wheel yours should be an easy fix but only thing the giuy said who done mine said i had to use them on the rear so no great loss there
 
as phil said the ones i had of him and had repaired where alot worse and had them repaired been right as rain since i used a place in leeds cost me £30 per wheel yours should be an easy fix but only thing the giuy said who done mine said i had to use them on the rear so no great loss there

I am going to keep the best one as my spare wheel....sell the other good one, sell the centre caps and scrap the two goosed wheels.

Given the fact that two possibly three tyres need replacing and that three wheels need a cosmetic refurbishment as well....it makes more financial sense, and for piece of mind to replace them
 
..and i think its a little irresponsible to recommend heaing up and hitting with hammers..this is a job for a professional company to do not a DIY job.

Absolutely. It's easy to see from the responses to this thread who's got any knowledge of metal. Metal can't be bent and rebent willy nilly. Ok, it can be physically beaten into shape but that doesn't mean the crystaline structure is happy. Cast metal is notorious for cracking at the best of times. Add to that that aluminium based alloys both age harden and work harden the metal becomes more brittle.

These wheels can most likely be fixed, but as above it's a job for professionals with access to controlled heat and NDT facilities.

The heat must be controlled in temperature, controlled in length of time exposed, and must be uniform across the whole piece, not just the bent bit attacked with a B&Q propane blow torch.

NDT is required to inspect for cracking of the alloy. NDT involves techniques such as dye-penetrants, ultrasounds and x-rays. "Inspection" isn't just a case of staring at it and concluding that it's probably fine.

Again, having done a few miles with no obvious problems so far doesn't mean you don't have a crack growing in length each time the wheel rotates. Just ask any aerospace engineer. The cracks that kill people are the awkward little sods that are really hard to see and nobody spots them until after the complete fracture of the part in question.
 
Absolutely. It's easy to see from the responses to this thread who's got any knowledge of metal. Metal can't be bent and rebent willy nilly. Ok, it can be physically beaten into shape but that doesn't mean the crystaline structure is happy. Cast metal is notorious for cracking at the best of times. Add to that that aluminium based alloys both age harden and work harden the metal becomes more brittle.

These wheels can most likely be fixed, but as above it's a job for professionals with access to controlled heat and NDT facilities.

The heat must be controlled in temperature, controlled in length of time exposed, and must be uniform across the whole piece, not just the bent bit attacked with a B&Q propane blow torch.

NDT is required to inspect for cracking of the alloy. NDT involves techniques such as dye-penetrants, ultrasounds and x-rays. "Inspection" isn't just a case of staring at it and concluding that it's probably fine.

Again, having done a few miles with no obvious problems so far doesn't mean you don't have a crack growing in length each time the wheel rotates. Just ask any aerospace engineer. The cracks that kill people are the awkward little sods that are really hard to see and nobody spots them until after the complete fracture of the part in question.

Go to bin, go directly to bin, do not pass Go, do not collect £200.
 
I agree that they shouldn`t be repaired, I was never going to use mine again, Darren bought the 2 good wheels from me and took the 2 damaged ones free of charge with the proviso that I took no responsibility for them whatsoever.
 
Bin! How would you feel in six months time with somebodys death on your conscience? Of course, there's a chance they'll be ok but is it really worth the risk? I don't like the standard cougar alloys but would rather have them on than chance repairing those.
 
i was always going to scrap Steve.

Like i have said before....going to keep one as a spare wheel, put one on ebay and scrap the two goosed ones.
 
Just make sure that your new spare is the same diameter/width/offset as whatever wheels you fit or it'll handle like a pig when fitted (and most likely illegal too) (y)
 
Just make sure that your new spare is the same diameter/width/offset as whatever wheels you fit or it'll handle like a pig when fitted (and most likely illegal too) (y)

I can vouch for that. I ran one of my standard 16s on the nearside front for a couple of months recently when I got a nail lodged in the tyre. Although the difference in outside rolling radius between a 215/50/R16 and a 215/45/R17 is extremely small, I found the inside edge of the 16 wore down to a being bald in no time. I have to say though, the handling was unaffected.