Standard wrx newer the better 237bhp ish depending On exact model you go for but it's a lot of work mating wiring looms etc cost and time are the biggest obstacles.
JJ
JJ
need a new engine!!! help!!!!
- Thread starter danielharman
- Start date
Just blow a zetec lump and chuck that in. Job done. No faffing or complex alterations. 300 bhp no problems
Don't mean to wee on your chips but "cheaper options" and "ways to keep up with a T5" don't belong in the same conversation.
If you just want the car running again as cheap as possible, just buy a standard Duratec 25 and have that fitted. If you want to make the car quicker but retaining most of the rest of the car, then fit an ST200 or ST220 complete with tubular exhaust headers while it's out. If you want to build something unique that'll beat a T5, don't start with a FWD coupe using NA engines unless you have very, very deep pockets.
If you just want the car running again as cheap as possible, just buy a standard Duratec 25 and have that fitted. If you want to make the car quicker but retaining most of the rest of the car, then fit an ST200 or ST220 complete with tubular exhaust headers while it's out. If you want to build something unique that'll beat a T5, don't start with a FWD coupe using NA engines unless you have very, very deep pockets.
Fair point Jamie, if you want to kick a T5`s arse you will need forced induction, there are not many cars that will without spending a lot of money
T5 engined Volvo`s are seriously quick and seem to put the power down reasonably well
T5 engine and rear wheel drive would do the job, lot of work though
T5 engined Volvo`s are seriously quick and seem to put the power down reasonably well
T5 engine and rear wheel drive would do the job, lot of work though
moneys the main obstacal not to worried how long it takes gona have a look about see whats out there?
My cars currently running the 220 lump but needs the ecu sorting out so its not running at 100% and I upset some idiot in a nice shiny top end 3 series trying to impress his girlfriend 
Once its running to its best ill go hunting for him again
Once its running to its best ill go hunting for him again
I only did my conversion as the engine was badly advertised on fleabay and I got it for a ridiculous amount
Search using slightly misspelled words and you might get lucky like I did
220 lump with ecu wiring loom and pats chip from a 2004 car with less than 50k on the clock delivered for less than 500 quid
Incidentally the 220 uses the same coilpack as the c2 cougar
Search using slightly misspelled words and you might get lucky like I did
220 lump with ecu wiring loom and pats chip from a 2004 car with less than 50k on the clock delivered for less than 500 quid
Incidentally the 220 uses the same coilpack as the c2 cougar
gona go for the st200 engine! now just need to find 1 any sugestions on what i should add to the engine whilst its out the car so i can start making a list? just seems the easiest option
Stainless steel tubular manifolds, without a doubt. Useful performance gain, sound lovely, pain in the arse to fit with the engine in situ but a piece of wee wee with it out of the car. As I think has been mentioned elsewhere, you'd be a fool if you didn't also take the opportunity to stick a shiny new clutch in there at the same time.
Unless you have a penchant for doing burnouts to impress Burberry clad teenage girls, the standard clutch is absolutely fine for this sort of power. The reason for replacing the clutch and slave cylinder/release bearing assembly is because they do wear (obviously) with use and it's a fairly expensive labout job to replace them as the subframe still has to be dropped to remove the gearbox.
A new waterpump doesn't hurt. The originals had plastic impellers. To be fair, most of them are ok, but the new part is all metal and it's not very expensive.
Those and the tubular headers are probably all that's really worth doing while the engine is out, although obviously a new set of proper Motorcraft platinum spark plugs should be fitted since the rear bank is slightly awkward to reach in situ.
If you want to make sure it's running tip top and not burning spare fuel, then generic Zirconia lambda sensors cost about 15 quid each on Ebay. Fit those into the new headers using your existing Ford plugs rather than swapping your old sensors in. Lambda sensors do degrade a bit with use, but most people leave them in situ until they fail completely. They do provide the measurements the ECU compares the fuelling with though, so you could lose performance and money by running excessively rich on old sensors.
A new waterpump doesn't hurt. The originals had plastic impellers. To be fair, most of them are ok, but the new part is all metal and it's not very expensive.
Those and the tubular headers are probably all that's really worth doing while the engine is out, although obviously a new set of proper Motorcraft platinum spark plugs should be fitted since the rear bank is slightly awkward to reach in situ.
If you want to make sure it's running tip top and not burning spare fuel, then generic Zirconia lambda sensors cost about 15 quid each on Ebay. Fit those into the new headers using your existing Ford plugs rather than swapping your old sensors in. Lambda sensors do degrade a bit with use, but most people leave them in situ until they fail completely. They do provide the measurements the ECU compares the fuelling with though, so you could lose performance and money by running excessively rich on old sensors.
great info im gona get the engine then get all the mods. the gearbox in my cars fine is it worth changing or should i look for a engine and gearbox together?
Very rare for a standard gearbox to go wrong. So rare in fact, that I don't recall ever hearing of it happening. Quaife make an ATB limited slip diff that fits our gearboxes but they're not cheap and probably of limited value unless you're planning big power.
A change of the gearbox oil whilst it's all going back together wouldn't do any harm though.
A change of the gearbox oil whilst it's all going back together wouldn't do any harm though.
Nah the gearboxes on these are pretty tough so if it's fine now I'd save my money if I were you. I've seen one with a knackered diff (stripped tooth) but the owner got through 3 clutches in the 2 years I knew him. You can probably tell his driving "style".
The MTX 75 is the basis of the gearbox in one of my current cars, which produces 231bhp and a supercharged R version was tested with nearer 400bhp, but the AWD system was the weaklink, not the gearbox.
On the subject of differentials, a limited slip differential is available for the MTX-75 and will help control any additional power a bit better. If you wanted to go that route, this would be the time to fit it to your existing gearbox.
The MTX 75 is the basis of the gearbox in one of my current cars, which produces 231bhp and a supercharged R version was tested with nearer 400bhp, but the AWD system was the weaklink, not the gearbox.
On the subject of differentials, a limited slip differential is available for the MTX-75 and will help control any additional power a bit better. If you wanted to go that route, this would be the time to fit it to your existing gearbox.
Hello and welcome to the forum; good luck with whatever you decide to do but please don't be tempted to go to Porchetech* in Benfleet as we had a very, very disappointed member who used them for a so-say ST220 upgrade.
* not necessarily the correct spelling as they seem to change names and place of business to confuse ex-customers.
* not necessarily the correct spelling as they seem to change names and place of business to confuse ex-customers.
@dyg leave the beemer alone lol and if you want to trounce a t5 well drop a t5 engine in the bay.......................