New engine

I

ISG

Well-known user
May 30, 2013
122
17
Lithuania
Hi guys, firstly i want to encourage you all to drop your oil pans and check your rod bearings, unless you want to end up just like me. Engine was perfect, no oil consumption at all, no cooling consumption, compression excellent, all the spark plugs equaly healthy colloured, and bam, rod bearing decide to go :) Now if i wont get away only by changing them (and 99% i wont), i will have to throw the engine away, will not risk to rebuild, because metal shavings were all over the oil pan... better just throw another engine and change those bearings in advance.
NOW THE QUESTION IS:
What do i need to swap the engine and make it run? I know that some cars need the same ecu, same immobilizers, or how do you call them... so i need the whone engine and what else?
Thaaanks!
 
Just get another engine that is running with no noise and change the big end bearings even though they show no signs of wear. You had the death rattle but didn't realise what it was!. Unless you know these engines inside out.
 
Last edited:
As Mark says, you just need the motor. The ECU has no interest in what specific engine it's controlling, as long as it's the same model.

As for prevention, I would suggest more frequent oil changes. And if you're driving on wild roads, (or on track) a baffled sump.
 
Hi, how can You say that i had a death rattle and didnt realised what it was? I immediately realised what it was, and the oil was changed even too frequently, also i didnt drove the car during winter times. Also drive.it anly in the clean city, no country roads or something. Anyway, thanks for answers! Will be looking for a new engine :(
 
My situation with Frosty was the same as ISG, regular oil and filter changes and one sweet running engine. That car was not abused but one day she decided to give up the ghost. Thinking back Jaffa was the same too.

Don't the later engines have better oilways and sump? is it just as easy to swap that engine in? I know the coil pack loom is different but keeping the one from the old engine (and swapping the rear rocker over) would fix this wouldn't it
 
Yep that's the later engine, if the manifold or anything else is different surely you could just swap it for the one on the old engine
 
But if i already see one line thst is different, i wonder what else ciuld be different besides that... also will it work with mine ecu, and everything else... because i dont want to swap the engines just to realise that it will work badly :( im on the edge of breaking my cougar down already :( So maybe someone knows for sure what are the differences between LCBD and SEA engines? And what else should be done when swaping? Thanks a lot!
 
And there is no hole for it? You drilled the hole in the block? Or there was a hole, and you anly needed an adapter? And what about that single vacum hose on the UIM? What else should i know? Thanks for info!
 
Just swap your intake. The vaccuum tube missing is the one that runs the egr valve, fuel regulator, sensor that bolts to the back of the intake for your egr system, the evap sensor on the firewall, and they grey line that runs inside the car for the heater controls i believe. Since it had the 2 holes for the sensor that bolts to the back of the intake it leads me to wonder if the idea of them just sticking a plug in the hole isnt what happened. The ledge for the hole is in the intake you can see it. That tube it does have is the brake booster. The mondeo being newer might not need all the other stuff the older cougar engine supplied vaccuum for. Other then the knock sensor that was mentioned everything else should be fixable with parts off your old engine.
 
rooster2100 said:
The mondeo being newer might not need all the other stuff the older cougar engine supplied vaccuum for.
Click to expand...

Apologies for the hijack, but this is very interesting. Vacuum technology is generally viewed as being older and obsolete, which is why we Cougar owners suffer with "modern" things like the *self-censored* IMRC which on earlier cars (Mk1 Mondy) was vac-driven.

Apart from pipes splitting, it does seem that vac was more reliable generally. Based on what I've seen, I'm not sure that electronics are an improvement.
 
Mako said:
Apologies for the hijack, but this is very interesting. Vacuum technology is generally viewed as being older and obsolete, which is why we Cougar owners suffer with "modern" things like the *self-censored* IMRC which on earlier cars (Mk1 Mondy) was vac-driven.

Apart from pipes splitting, it does seem that vac was more reliable generally. Based on what I've seen, I'm not sure that electronics are an improvement.
Click to expand...
With ignitions perhaps because we've gone from vacuum advance distributors to distributorless ignitions. Even the wifes 2012 vehicle still has vacuum lines on it. Any brake booster with the line off it is vacuum assisted.
 
The threaded hole is their for the knock sensor but the mondeo never had a knock sensor, and some of the earlier cougar engines don't have them fitted either, if your old engine has one you will either need to refit it to your new engine, close the loop on the loose connector or just not worry about the ecu fault code
 
The death rattle happens between 0.5 and 1.0 second when the engine starts it is just a simple dunk and the engine runs fine until the engine gives up!
 
Regarding vacuum tubes, the newer engine still has 2 holes in the UIM but one of the holes is capped. Remove the plastic cap and you have somewhere for both your original vacuum tubes.
 
Maybe because thats my topic in neco site? :) Anyway i checked that engine in person, and im afraid that you guys are not correct, there is only one hole, and no plastic caps. However there are some other mondeo engines with caps. I think it depends on the year of manufacture. Maybe when they were doing the last duratec engines, they just changed the design to no hole at all, because the single car witch engine will be used in is mondeo, and it just doesnt need second hole...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.