New member - Cougar door & alarm problem

C

CougarET

New user
Jul 31, 2015
8
3
Ruthin, North Wales
Hi everyone!
I'm a new member and have a Silver 2.5 V6 Cougar reg. S199 MHG.
I have a problem with the driver's door lock mechanism and also the alarm, but not sure if they are connected.
The driver's door locks ok with the key, but will not open the door. It feels as if it is slipping within the barrel if that makes sense? But every now and again it will open the lock, mostly it opens as soon as you have locked it, but not afterwards. I have tried WD40 down the barrel which improves for a while but the problem returns.
The remote/alarm doesn't work either - I have tried disconnecting the immobiliser box in the drivers footwell twice (sprayed some WD40 on contacts) but cannot get the remote to connect when trying the connecting sequence after.
Can anyone help please?
Thanks,
Eric
 
Hello Eric and welcome to the forum. (y)

When you have the lock in a 'working' condition treat it to some silicon grease or similar instead of the WD40 as that will tend to dry it out causing the problem to return.

Is your immobiliser lamp, in the left-hand dummy switch of the 4 above the heater control panel, doing anything?
 
Hi Quicksilver,

Thanks for the welcome!

I will try the silicone grease in the lock thanks - is it better that I try doing this by taking the door off and trying to get closer to the barrel, otherwise how do you get grease far enough down the barrel?
Regarding the immobiliser light on the dashboard, this flashes normally before doing the sequence. When I turn the ignition key 4 times within 3 seconds, the dash light is permanently lit (I assume this means it has entered programming mode?), but when I press any of the buttons on the fob, the dash light continues to be permanently lit. I have changed the battery in the key fob and checked it on a volt meter which is showing it's ok. When I take the key fob apart the light inside doesn't light up when you press any button - should it light up?
Thanks in advance,
Eric
 
Try spraying the key blade with the grease and 'working' it in the lock a few times.
It appears as though your key isn't 'talking' to the car.
When you talk of a light I assume you mean the glass tube inside the key fob?
This is the transponder and it doesn't illuminate.
How many keys have you got?
 
Hi Quicksilver,

Thanks for the grease on the keyblade advice.

What I thought was a 'light' is inside the fob and therefore must be the transponder that you mention - thanks.
I only have 1 fob - is it worth me buying another do you think?
Cheers,
Eric
 
Hi mate welcome to the forum.
I really must visit Ruthin one day - I paid into the fund to have the Tom Pryce memorial built and I'd like to finally get to see the result 'in the metal'.
We're having a little get-together in September on the Worcs-Herefordshire borders and you'd be welcome to join us.
 
Hi Backseateducation,

Thanks for you welcome!

I you are ever in Ruthin, give me a shout - the kettle is always on here! It's a nice memorial for Tom Pryce in the middle of town btw!
I will struggle to make it to your get-together, as I'm really busy in September sorry, but thanks for the offer.

On another note, can anyone throw any light on my key fob connection problem above?
Rgds,
Eric
 
Hi Eric & welcome. Not been here long myself, but this lot seem mostly harmless :)

Re your locking problems, I had almost endless similar problems with my old mk2 Mondeo, most of which could be traced back to the lock motors in the doors getting water in them due to inadequate waterproofing. My problems came to a head when the lock motor in the driver's door finally failed completely causing it to continually blow fuses - I got lucky and found a cheap replacement on ebay, once fitted (2 hours on a freezing afternoon in February, brrrr) it solved the problem. I don't know if the Cougar has the exact same bits as a Mondeo, but I'd be surprised if they weren't at least similar.

I don't know as much about the alarm/immobiliser/remote side of things, fortunately that side always worked for me. I believe you need 2 keys to be able to enter the programming mode (although I could be wrong about that - it'll be nice if I am, I've only got the one key for mine)

I found some helpful info here: http://www.mirez.co.uk/AlarmProbs.htm plus some general googling threw up a few more helpful results - I think central locking problems were pretty common on Mondeos of a similar vintage to Cougars.

No idea if any of this is helpful, just my 2p :)
 
Another belated welcome here too.

Your lock/latch mechanism may be beginning to cease up causing both the CL motor and the key having to work harder.
I bet your lock lever under the handle inside the car is stiff too.
Spray some penetrating oil into the mechanism itself, work it in by opening and closing the door and cycling the lock a few times, spray some more, work it in again and so on until it loosens up.
Then finish off with spraying silicone grease before the penetrating oil dries up.
 
Hi FlamencoAssasin,

Thanks for your advice with the silicone grease - so far this has worked!!

Thanks also to QuickSilver who I met at the recent Ford meet in Blackpool - it was a good event with a lot more cars than I thought would be there. Regarding my immobiliser connection problem with my key, I have been able to get it to connect for about 5 mins when everything worked (doors and tailgate) but it has died on me again afterwards!! Am I right in thinking it's the key fob that's at fault then?
Thanks,
Eric
 
I'm not sure if you've got the terminology right here.

The immobiliser system only affects whether you can start the engine. It relies on the transponder in the key which is the little glass bulb-like thing in the key.

The remote locking is controlled by the buttons/pcb/battery in the fob part of the key and there's a receiver somewhere near the drivers footwell.

Both are linked to the alarm but they're programmed separately.

If remote locking the doors is your problem, I'd start with a new battery in the fob. It's a CR2032 battery.
 
Last edited:
Hi and welcome (y)
Regards programming, we have to differentiate here between the remote central locking fob and the key's transponder, They work independently.
To connect the remote central locking fob, you can do that with only one fob. If you have more than one, you have to do them at the same time, that is all.
But (unless you go to a specialist . .) you need minimum 2 keys with transponders to program a third, in order for the third key to start the car - otherwise it will only be good for locking/unlocking the doors.
The programming sequence is different for remote fobs and transponders. I don't have the info to hand, but make sure you're not trying to program a remote fob using the transponder program sequence.

Cheers,
Rod
 
Hi - I haven't posted anything for a while. My car is currently SORN, but I will be posting in the sales section shortly. I had bought it originally with a view to building using it as a donor for a kit car, but funds haven't allowed!
In the meantime I need to get another 2-3 posts to get my posts to over 10 to get over the threshold if anybody can help me please....!!:giggle:
 
Well, you're a paid-up member and although we'll be sorry to see you leave cougar ownership, why not tell us how you ultimately got on with that key fob?
 
CougarET said:
Hi - I haven't posted anything for a while. My car is currently SORN, but I will be posting in the sales section shortly. I had bought it originally with a view to building using it as a donor for a kit car, but funds haven't allowed!
In the meantime I need to get another 2-3 posts to get my posts to over 10 to get over the threshold if anybody can help me please....!!:giggle:
Click to expand...

Hello again Eric; shame you've had to SORN your Cougar and that things haven't worked out with your kit car.
 
Hi Mako,

There were 2 issues I had - using the key in the barrel wasn't opening the drivers door, but after using some silicone oil this improved for some time, but went back to normal, so I think the barrel needs replacing ultimately. The key fob was intermittent - it worked for a short time but then went off again. To be honest the car has been parked in my dad's shed with a cover over it since being SORN - these are the only issues I have had which I'm sure are fixable - just need a bit of TLC and getting the car on the road to justify spending a bit on it.
Cheers,
Eric

Mako said:
Well, you're a paid-up member and although we'll be sorry to see you leave cougar ownership, why not tell us how you ultimately got on with that key fob?
Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

Hi Quicksilver,

It was good to meet you in the Blackpool show a couple of years ago. I wish I had the time and money to continue with the kit car. I could leave it for the future, but I think a car standing is not great so will be offering it for sale - my dad is also fed up of it in his shed ha ha!
Thanks,
Eric


Quicksilver said:
Hello again Eric; shame you've had to SORN your Cougar and that things haven't worked out with your kit car.
Click to expand...
 
Only one more post needed. Without making it look like a "for sale" thread, did you do anything interesting to it, or maybe go somewhere you'd like to talk about?

Um, also bear in mind that a car club's website is usually the worst place to try selling a vehicle - we've all got them already! In fact, Matt is currently giving one away. I only mention this so that you're not insulted if nobody takes you up on yours and you have to eBay it. But good luck anyway!
 
Hi Mako,
I didn't do anything to the car visually because the 'dream' was to us it for a kit car, which would have been a Ferrari 430 Scuderia replica made by a company called DNA based in the Midlands.
I put a new handbrake cable to get it through it's MOT last year, and it has failed with some rust under the driver's sill this year.
Anyway, I will try it on here to see if anyone's interested as it's such a low mileage.
Cheers,
Eric
 
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