New owner

maestroman

Club Member
Aug 8, 2023
76
159
Newtown , Powys
Hi all

I have just bought a 2.5 V6 Cougar on an X , though iam awaiting delivery.

The car is going to be MOTd and then have a full service. Previous MOT history looks good , but is there anything to worry about ?

Couple of questions...

The IMRC unit, if all is well , shall I leave it alone ? Or give it a clean and service ?

Remote central doesn't work, is this usually key fob related , or fuse / electrical related ?

Anything worth changing as a preventive measure ?

Thanks

Stephen
 
Hello Stephen and welcome to the forum.
You need to get underneath and have a good look at the sills, inner and outer, front and back and the rear subframe for signs of bad corrosion and/or previous repairs.
Does the central locking work by turning the key in the door? If it does then a new battery in the remote key will probably cure the problem. If it doesn't then you're looking at a blown fuse usually caused by a dodgy door solenoid.
 
hello and welcome!

as andy has said above rear part of sills and just inside(floor) of the sills at the front tend to be bad points for these.
i recommend if the outside looks ok then take the interior rear panels out by the sides of the rear seat ,remove the plastic infills and shine a torch in there ,any sigh of rust in there should be stopped asap as these rot from this inside...even just throwing some fresh engine oil in there will help stop it.
another place to check is remove the front wheels, then remove the black plastic inners ,now look into the wing towards the doors and u will see another black foam infill...remove that and clear any crud outta there...it causes the bottoms of the wings to rot.

subframes especially the rear one can look very scabby but be ok, best way to test it is give it a knock about with a pin hammer, do this after your mot tho :LOL:
if any holes appear then its goosed, if not get some rust remover on it and then rustproof it, its best to remove it to do this BUT u can put years of life back on it just by giving it a good coat of waxoil or your prefered rust inhibitor whilst in situ...(bilthamber is another good one).

as for the imrc, if it works well then id leave it alone BUT they do suffer from the heat from the engine so many on here including me will tell u to remove it and shove it under the battery tray away from the heat.

if u fancy a bit more power then there are some options with this imrc, ive completely removed my secondary's that it controls, this will reduce a tiny bit of low rev torque but 2500rpm up will give u a nice amount of power.
the easiest way to do this is to just lock them in the open position.
DO NOT remove the imrc box unit tho, you can cut the cable but the unit has a switch in it that activates at 25k and tells the ecu to put slightly more fuel in... so leave it plugged in.

one more thing...
most of the stuff (subframes and suspension) off a mk2 mondeo will fit these cars including the larger intake setup that the v6 st200 has....a quick and great way to improve your car.

if u look in the projects section most of us have done this work there with detailed pictures (mine is called now i have 2)
also the howto section is great if your having any issues(including key fobs).

anyway ive done my usual and rambled on enough:LOL:(y)

when u get it ,put some pictures up! we love to see em no matter how scabby they may be, we'll often look at these and say do this do that to help out.

enjoy what is becoming a rare classic(y)(y):D
 
Hi fellas

Ah thanks for that. Haven't actually seen the car yet.....but iam hopefully it's fairly solid . Will certainly be taking the panels off and checking for rust.

Not really sure what iam gonna do with it engine wise, will see how much poke its got a go from there .

Once I've got pictures and stuff I will post them

Cheers
Stephen
 
Hi all,

So the car is all picked up , though i still haven`t sen it yet. Collection... was interesting. Turns out the front two tyres were showing cord and wire, which wasn`t in the advert and one of the rears had a budge in it, which could potentially be causing the suspected rear wheel bearing noise in the advert.

The is also a oil leak off the filter, hoping this is a simple fix. Rear sub frame is scabby , but solid , brakes a spongey and covered in rust.... but working , also half a tank of fuel still in the car. Oh and the drivers side front jacking point needs welding

After a lot of haggling and me threatening to get the driver to walk away , we agreed on ÂŁ600.

I am guessing the bloke took it off the road as the tyres were illegal , would also also explain the rusted / soft brakes

Service history backs up the low miles , apparently engine / gear box seemed good, started fine , IMRC opened up .

New tyres have been ordered....

Next questions, HT leads, wow there expensive. Any reason why ? I have even tried Burton Power , but they don`t do their own either.

This is the car : ford cougar 2.5 v6 2000 64000 miles | eBay

Thanks
Stephen
 
Sounds like you did the right think getting some money knocked off, especially as the standard sized tyres are a bit of an oddity. Are you looking for upgraded HT leads or standard replacements?
 
HI

Had some trouble finding tyres, but all sorted now


Don`t really think i need uprated , not at ÂŁ180 . I`ve got an Essex V6 in another car, and the HT leads are only ÂŁ50 for standard and ÂŁ110ish for uprated.

Thanks
Stephen
 
Aftermarket standard for ÂŁ40 odd here:


10mm 'performance' leads for ÂŁ100 here:

 
Hello and welcome.
Personally I like the IMRC working.
Mine wasn’t until I moved it to the end of the battery tray away from the heat of the front exhaust manifold.
Pretty easy to do and it brought mine back to life. It’s been there for years and is still working.
 
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I'm going to disagree with Mabo for once. Yes, Ford put the IMRC in there for a reason. Yes, it improves torque at lower revs. No, it is not worth putting up with and if you find it needs relocating then it's probably already too far gone.

I respect those who replace/repair/baby the thing but... I will never futz around with one again. Deleted and secondaries wired open. If I need to lamp it from a standstill, I know where my right foot is. Paul (Shirtyzeus) is right though - just cut the actuator cable.
___________________________________________________________________________________________

As above, those Prospark leads aren't any sort of performance improvement over the Ford ones, but they last far longer and are less than half the price. No-brainer.

It's good suppliers like that who keep cars going, and we should support them instead of paying fortunes to Ford who don't care about cars once they're sold and out of warranty.
 
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Ah cool, I had a moment of madness and bid on that car when it was first listed and lost at the last minute, nice to see it's coming into the club!
 
Hi chaps.

Tried to order the leads , but they are out of stock till next week , so will try again. . Gonna give the car a full service before putting it on the road , that way its more of a known quantity

Will see where I am at with the IMRC when the car is on the road. It appears to be working , so will probably not muck around with it , but moving it seems a sensible option , more preventive , than a cure.

The plan is to use the car daily , make sure everything is in order and then sort the door / body work. Should still make it quite a cheap car and a little bit different from the normal SUV stuff everyone is driving

Thanks
Stephen
 
Last edited:
Mako, you say
“ I'm going to disagree with Mabo for once. “

I hadn’t notice that we agree or disagree on stuff. Maybe it’s just a turn of phrase.

Either way I always welcome discussion, it’s our all being different that makes life interesting.
In our case even if we drive the same car, alas ours are both “resting” at the moment.
 
Mabo, it was a reference to the fact that I usually agree with your viewpoint but, when I don't, I rarely say anything.

In other words, it's notable (to me at least) to be vocal about not agreeing with you. Nothing cryptic meant, my friend.
 
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I'm going to disagree with Mabo for once. Yes, Ford put the IMRC in there for a reason. Yes, it improves torque at lower revs. No, it is not worth putting up with and if you find it needs relocating then it's probably already too far gone.

I respect those who replace/repair/baby the thing but... I will never futz around with one again. Deleted and secondaries wired open. If I need to lamp it from a standstill, I know where my right foot is. Paul (Shirtyzeus) is right though - just cut the actuator cable.
___________________________________________________________________________________________

As above, those Prospark leads aren't any sort of performance improvement over the Ford ones, but they last far longer and are less than half the price. No-brainer.

It's good suppliers like that who keep cars going, and we should support them instead of paying fortunes to Ford who don't care about cars once they're sold and out of warranty.
im not a fan of the imrc either, too much to go wrong over time.
if carbon from the soddin EGR valve dont bung the secondaries shut(or open) then the poor underrated overheated transistor in the imrc that trying to make a deliberately jammed motor turn will give up.... why they didn't just use a stepper motor i'll never know.
 
im not a fan of the imrc either, too much to go wrong over time.
if carbon from the soddin EGR valve dont bung the secondaries shut(or open) then the poor underrated overheated transistor in the imrc that trying to make a deliberately jammed motor turn will give up.... why they didn't just use a stepper motor i'll never know.

Did you know that the earlier ones, (not on the MkVIII Cougar) were actually vacuum-controlled? I'm not sure whether that's better or worse. Easier to fix though I suppose.
 
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