Somewhere in Northamptonshire, 6 digits roll around...
- Thread starter Mako
- Start date
Congratulations! You made it to the 100,000 miles club
Does this mean that Mako gets to be part of the OFS even if I don't quite qualify yet?
Ikve made it 4 times with the same car
Going to get it done on Friday, mate. Want the weekend to fix anything silly that comes up. And no worries about the subframe or droplinks, but I don't really know about the wishbones, (though that'd take longer than a day or two to fix). Car feels fine, but I'm still paranoid.
Bet that anyone reading this is nodding in understanding.
Anyway, thank you guys. If акула is off the road, it won't be for very long. Especially since I'll be driving an Astra in the meantime.
I...I think you might be up here in 6 figures by now mate.
Are you determining your speed through gear/revs or relying on your satnav?
Does this mean that Mako gets to be part of the OFS even if I don't quite qualify yet?
Membership criteria is very strict Chris. I mean, just to get an interview for entry, you need to be an old fart!
You hum it, i'll play it
. What is Cyrillic?
You hum it, i'll play it
Russian script Al; looks like Chris wants a shark on his tail.
I'm a bit worried about this nearside door handle to be honest. It works, and opens the door, but needs to be pressed back down again rather than returning by itself.
MOT is actually going to be Sat midday, which gives me the morning to see what's what.
Anyone fancy venturing an opinion of whether it will fail if I don't completely sort it?
MOT is actually going to be Sat midday, which gives me the morning to see what's what.
Anyone fancy venturing an opinion of whether it will fail if I don't completely sort it?
Get the card off Chris, and disconnect the handle conrod from the latch. This will help to eliminate one or the other.
Though I've had the cards off a few times, I've never actually looked at the handles so I can't picture the layout. I'm sure it will all become clear once I get in there. But the way it feels, it's certainly gummed up. I'm thinking some degreaser might be in order.
Oh - and Quicksilver was right! Might need a rethink though. I'll post in the appropriate thread if I get a design in mind.
Though I've had the cards off a few times, I've never actually looked at the handles so I can't picture the layout. I'm sure it will all become clear once I get in there. But the way it feels, it's certainly gummed up. I'm thinking some degreaser might be in order.
Oh - and Quicksilver was right! Might need a rethink though. I'll post in the appropriate thread if I get a design in mind.
When you see the rods, it will be obvious, but i can post an image from TIS if you want one mate.
Thought I'd let you know how I got on... in the end, it was just crud in there that spraying from the ouside (with the handle raised) couldn't reach.
For the benefit of anyone who's never seen the mechanism, what I did was;
1) Remove door card.
2) Undo the two silver bolts at either end of the handle (the rearmost one is reached through a hole just large enough for a socket to fit through)
3) Remove the outer part of the door handle - basically the triangular trim - allowing access to the top of the mech from the outside.
4) Remove the three bolts that hold the lock mechanism in (on the "end" of the door).
5) Wiggle the mechanism just enough to see the rearward hinge.
6) Mask the electrical gubbins with cloth, then spray the top hinge and spring with degreaser like a maniac. Allow to stand for 5 minutes, moving the handle occasionally.
7) Mop up any excess degreaser, then slather the hinge and spring with lubricant of your choice. Protip: I don't recommend KY jelly as that's water-based.
8) [Haynes]Reassembly is the the reverse of removal. [/Haynes] Ensure that the lock mechanism lines up with the strike plate correctly.
Peasy.
As a side-note, the MOT bloke said that he would not have failed the car for it, as long as he could get the door closed and didn't have to use excessive force on the handle. I asked him what excessive force meant and he replied, "Whatever I say it is!".
Of course a door that won't open from the outside is an immediate fail.
For the benefit of anyone who's never seen the mechanism, what I did was;
1) Remove door card.
2) Undo the two silver bolts at either end of the handle (the rearmost one is reached through a hole just large enough for a socket to fit through)
3) Remove the outer part of the door handle - basically the triangular trim - allowing access to the top of the mech from the outside.
4) Remove the three bolts that hold the lock mechanism in (on the "end" of the door).
5) Wiggle the mechanism just enough to see the rearward hinge.
6) Mask the electrical gubbins with cloth, then spray the top hinge and spring with degreaser like a maniac. Allow to stand for 5 minutes, moving the handle occasionally.
7) Mop up any excess degreaser, then slather the hinge and spring with lubricant of your choice. Protip: I don't recommend KY jelly as that's water-based.
8) [Haynes]Reassembly is the the reverse of removal. [/Haynes] Ensure that the lock mechanism lines up with the strike plate correctly.
Peasy.
As a side-note, the MOT bloke said that he would not have failed the car for it, as long as he could get the door closed and didn't have to use excessive force on the handle. I asked him what excessive force meant and he replied, "Whatever I say it is!".
Of course a door that won't open from the outside is an immediate fail.