sump thread nightmare!

M

mattypompey

Forum user
May 2, 2015
49
5
Portsmouth
Hi Chaps,

Need some advice. I decided to do an oil change and after struggling to Gert the old roundedsump plug office purchased a new plug (m12 1.75),on installing it I encountered some resistance but carried on turning it. It remained loose so I removed it. On the thread of the plug was dwarf from the hole. Now I don't know what to do. Replacing the sump is out of the question for money reasons.

I have ordered a new longer plug to try and create more of a purchase on the bore. Other solutions I've considered getting a mechanic to create a new thread with a tap or helicoil, getting a welder to plate it up and use dipstick tube to remove all in the future, or use a universal sump plug and put some universal blue sealant around the joint.

What do you fellas think is my best option?

Thanks in advance.(y)

M
 
just remove the y pipe ,its not difficult. then drill it out and tap it...its soft alloy so easy to do...just flush some fresh oil through it after u tapped out the hole so any swarf comes out with the oil...do this as the oil pump is not protected by the oil filter..

if you dont want to do this halfords sell a glue that sets like metal, its a 2 pack so mix it up and put shed loads around the bolt and just hold it in till it sets..
did this with my mondeo as a quick fix and it does hold but it is a bit of a bodge though...

but honestly just tap it to m14
 
shirtyzeus said:
if you dont want to do this halfords sell a glue that sets like metal, its a 2 pack so mix it up and put shed loads around the bolt and just hold it in till it sets..
did this with my mondeo as a quick fix and it does hold but it is a bit of a bodge though...
Click to expand...

Ooo I love a bodge(y)
 
Hi John, thank you so much for the offer of a sump that's extremely kind of you. I'm going to try a couple of other methods first but if they're unsuccessful I'll get back to you.

Thanks for all the other comments guys. Yes I agree that in a perfect world the replacement sump would be best but I can't afford the labour ATM and can I do it myself as haven't gotnthe kit to do it. Using a magnet and flushing with oil may get rid of the swarf? I like a bodge too. Thanks for the tip for that sealant stuff.

Might get it plate welded and just use a vacuum pump through the dipstick for new oil changes!:eek:

I'll let you know how it goes. Cheers. :beer:



Cougar-V6 said:
I've got a sump if you need one?

John
Click to expand...
 
mattypompey said:
Hi John, thank you so much for the offer of a sump that's extremely kind of you. I'm going to try a couple of other methods first but if they're unsuccessful I'll get back to you.

Thanks for all the other comments guys. Yes I agree that in a perfect world the replacement sump would be best but I can't afford the labour ATM and can I do it myself as haven't gotnthe kit to do it. Using a magnet and flushing with oil may get rid of the swarf? I like a bodge too. Thanks for the tip for that sealant stuff.

Might get it plate welded and just use a vacuum pump through the dipstick for new oil changes!:eek:

I'll let you know how it goes. Cheers. :beer:
Click to expand...

the sump is Ally so a magnet won't help, if you have the front of the car up on ramps use a slow speed on drill and a lot of swarf will come out on you (be less to flush)make sure you wear protective glasses, give it a good flush if your carefull with the oil you remove and don't get it contaminated you could use the old oil to flush as you'll have about 5 litres if your going to do it this way
but as been said the replacement sump is the better option
 
I'd strongly advice against risking swarf in the sump! A new sump may cost money however a new engine will be more expensive ;) Only takes an oilway to be blocked for a few moments..
 
its not oilways that are at risk its the oil pump as it only has a strainer to protect it...i didn't say this was the proper way to do it and to be honest if it were my car id get the sump john kindly offered...
the glue idea IS a bodge that works if you need the car and don't have time or money to get it fitted..i believe i stated thato_O

as for swarf remaining in the engine after drilling , my advice was to pour engine oil in and let it drain out the hole in the sump therefore taking the swarf with it...this is a tried and tested method..ive even retrieved a broken dipstick end using this method..

geez dont all jump down my throat will yer(y)
 
There is little chance of it entering the oilway as the pick up pipe has a very fine filter on the end but has been said before stick a lower sump on.
 
lazybones said:
the sump is Ally so a magnet won't help, if you have the front of the car up on ramps use a slow speed on drill and a lot of swarf will come out on you (be less to flush)make sure you wear protective glasses, give it a good flush if your carefull with the oil you remove and don't get it contaminated you could use the old oil to flush as you'll have about 5 litres if your going to do it this way
but as been said the replacement sump is the better option
Click to expand...

Thanks lazy bones. Yeah I thought the sump was ally as it threaded easily and was relatively soft but thought it may be slightly magnetic. As you say it isn't, apparently due to it's crystal and electronic shell structure whereas ferrous metals generally are. I flushed it with some oil.

Thanks for the advice how to proceed though. Fingers crossed I used a longer new sump plug today and gingerly installed it. It appears that the sump thread was only threaded about an 1\8 of the length of the bore and there is enough residual quality thread to provide sufficient torque to keep it secure. I have run the engine briefly and cannot see any leaks but I'll test again tomorrow in better light.

Cheers again (y)
 
Excellent ,glad you got it sorted....just remember to be careful next time you do ur oil change...:)


mattypompey said:
Thanks lazy bones. Yeah I thought the sump was ally as it threaded easily and was relatively soft but thought it may be slightly magnetic. As you say it isn't, apparently due to it's crystal and electronic shell structure whereas ferrous metals generally are. I flushed it with some oil.

Thanks for the advice how to proceed though. Fingers crossed I used a longer new sump plug today and gingerly installed it. It appears that the sump thread was only threaded about an 1\8 of the length of the bore and there is enough residual quality thread to provide sufficient torque to keep it secure. I have run the engine briefly and cannot see any leaks but I'll test again tomorrow in better light.

Cheers again (y)
Click to expand...
 
Vac pumps are pretty low in price now, I wouldn't risk removing that plug again.

Glad to see you've had a result!
 
spjmorris said:
Vac pumps are pretty low in price now, I wouldn't risk removing that plug again.

Glad to see you've had a result!
Click to expand...

Thing is, a Duratec sump is so cheap now that the cost of the pump/tool doesn't make sense. If Tiger stripped her sump plug, I'd rather pay the cost of replacing the sump completely. And stick on the baffled one from a Sable that stops the oil starvation in sweeping left-hand bends.
 
Last edited:
Mako said:
Thing is, a Duratec sump is so cheap now that the cost of the pump/tool doesn't make sense. If Tiger stripped her sump plug, I'd rather pay the cost of replacing the sump completely. And stick on the baffled one from a Sable that stops the oil staravtion in sweeping left-hand bends.
Click to expand...

Absolutely agree - but as the OP seems reluctant to swap the sump over..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.