Super cheap Cougar oil?

Just be careful buying oil from Ebay.

I saw a report about fake Ford oil shortly after buying some very cheap Formula F.

I'll only buy it from the dealers now.
 
I only use fully synthetic in mine that one says part synthetic. Im lucky we have a caldo oil near me who manufacture oil thats good quality and i get it at a good price and often get a litre as a freebie when i buy 5 litres.
 
Seems to be quite a lot of cheap unipart stuff going around at the moment.

I wonder if they are in trouble?

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dogsbody said:
Just be careful buying oil from Ebay.

I saw a report about fake Ford oil shortly after buying some very cheap Formula F.

I'll only buy it from the dealers now.
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Fordpartsuk often have a deal on the forumla F
 
poose said:
I only use fully synthetic in mine that one says part synthetic. Im lucky we have a caldo oil near me who manufacture oil thats good quality and i get it at a good price and often get a litre as a freebie when i buy 5 litres.
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...I have been considering going fully synthetic on mine...might I ask if it requires an engine flush and which oil do you use?
 
SimonWS said:
Oh dear, I've got quite a lot of it now!
Simon
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The seller has overwhelmingly positive feedback, and the only negative ones have been about stock availability and refunds, not product quality.

Personally I would just use the stuff, though you could always send off a sample to have it analysed. Except that would wipe out whatever you saved on the cost of the oil in the first place.

wooddragon45 said:
...I have been considering going fully synthetic on mine...might I ask if it requires an engine flush and which oil do you use?
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I've never used a flush, on any of my cars. Not even when changing the type from semi to full.

I could be wrong, but it seems to me that a flush is really only necessary when the oil has been allowed to stay in the sump for too long and there's sulphur compounds, soot and water in there.

Just make sure you get her good and hot before you open the plug. And learn to push the plug in until it's off the threads, then pull it away sharpish because burning oil sucks. Even through gloves.
 
Mako said:
The seller has overwhelmingly positive feedback, and the only negative ones have been about stock availability and refunds, not product quality.

Personally I would just use the stuff, though you could always send off a sample to have it analysed. Except that would wipe out whatever you saved on the cost of the oil in the first place.



I've never used a flush, on any of my cars. Not even when changing the type from semi to full.

I could be wrong, but it seems to me that a flush is really only necessary when the oil has been allowed to stay in the sump for too long and there's sulphur compounds, soot and water in there.

Just make sure you get her good and hot before you open the plug. And learn to push the plug in until it's off the threads, then pull it away sharpish because burning oil sucks. Even through gloves.
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...Thanks...I'm assuming the viscocity is the same...and the boiling oil? Despite it being a medieaval tradition, I'll try to avoid it...
 
wooddragon45 said:
...Thanks...I'm assuming the viscocity is the same...and the boiling oil? Despite it being a medieaval tradition, I'll try to avoid it...
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Assuming the oil is genuine, should have the same viscosity.

You may have seen some posts here about fake oil, and those tend to be about conterfeit products with either the wrong viscosity (unlikely), the wrong detergents/additives/anti-foaming agents (much more likely) or just not being fully-synth at all (stop buying from Chinese suppliers).

Now as I understand it, the difference between semi-synth and fully synth is how well the oil resists shear forces. How long it protects your engine, to the same level, over the same period of time. I prefer the consistency, so that's what I do.

As for the rest? I recommend staying away from castle walls but would urge you to buy a trebuchet.
 
Mako said:
Assuming the oil is genuine, should have the same viscosity.


Now as I understand it, the difference between semi-synth and fully synth is how well the oil resists shear forces. How long it protects your engine, to the same level, over the same period of time. I prefer the consistency, so that's what I do.

...My reasoning is I did less than 3000 miles between MOT's...but that oil is still breaking down anyway, but I believe that fully synthetic
doesn't break down as fast...

As for the rest? I recommend staying away from castle walls but would urge you to buy a trebuchet.
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:LOL: LOL...
 
wooddragon45 said:
:LOL: LOL...
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LOL dude, you broke the quote system! You said:

wooddragon45 said:
...My reasoning is I did less than 3000 miles between MOT's...but that oil is still breaking down anyway, but I believe that fully synthetic
doesn't break down as fast...
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My answer is this:

If you're only doing 3000 miles per year and pulling short journeys, I strongly suggest that you change your oil every 6 months. Maybe even every 3 months.

Fully synth is great for keeping the same service interval on high-mileage cars, but it doesn't protect those poor girls that go through frequent or short hot/cold cycles. You're getting condensation in your sump that isn't burning off and turns to acid and that's not how you preserve a motor long-term.

Trust me on this. Jinxy knows.
 
...Hmm...sounds like it'd be better to stick with standard and just change it more often...thanks for the advice, it's appreciated... :)
 
My oil has just arrived and it's quite a result - not sure whether by accident or if they ran out of semi synthetic but what I actually got was 20 litres of fully synthetic 5W30 Pro S200 Unipart oil for less than £40! Personally I have no problems at all feeding it to my Cougar.

Simon
 
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