want to thank people first but should i or shouldnt i

Procomm said:
All sounds like ABS to me, power drain will be the ABS ECU trying to regain its composure, replacement ABS pump needs software to bleed
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ABS light could be the module, but my father-in-law changed mine without any bleeding software :)lol:), and it works perfect.
Oh, and welcome to the OP (y)

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Procomm said:
I was working off the fact that the IMRC usually fails at a rev range not an engine running duration but then I have never had one fail :smug:
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Maybe your engine never got that hot ??
 
yes maybe that could be a factor the guy im buying off stated that he did a lot of trips 200 miles + to and from work several times a week so considerable heat i would imagine is the problem
he says it takes about an hour of constant driveing before plays up it drives fine after that with no guts and cruises at 80 no probs but when stops restarts seems to be fine

so hopefully catching this early and a quick move to battery tray will have no more probs says it got a little scuff on front corner more of a graze he said than scratch inherited at supermarket lol

as for abs hopefully abs wheel sensor or ring steve got code machine i get it straight on that free of course runs a garage good bunch of boys up there always helping me out he got lovely evo up there 780 bhp into a little weekend touring car raceing and dan pritchard into pure looks modification google dan pritchards mg turbo was silver diesel then white now grey just got back from holland had a good show

so am lucky to have good help not interested in modification much myself just the odd little tweak

i am more interested in reliability and really appreciate knowledge you guys got for this car and i love the way it looks and bought the 16v in beginning cos it was cheap had a few issues with never haveing no time and it just sat there defo want this one motd no excuses not to make a meet this year

have some interchangeable bits off 16v but thanks mako for reminding me more uesful to keep it for readily available spares or on a second thought to restore after i got v6 tidy but i will just have to hide it up my mate steves yard where mrs cant c :devilish: he he he

seems a waste when i got all bits lying around to get back on road she will just be a bit scruffy with an mot for a while can work on that at a later date that all lmfao

samantha really will kill me :censored:
 
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tattt said:
yes maybe that could be a factor the guy im buying off stated that he did a lot of trips 200 miles + to and from work several times a week so considerable heat i would imagine is the problem
he says it takes about an hour of constant driveing before plays up it drives fine after that with no guts and cruises at 80 no probs but when stops restarts seems to be fine
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If it goes that long before getting gutless, there's a very good chance that relocating it will solve the problem without having to change the unit (or the transistor). Just bear in mind that it activates at around 3750RPM - which equates to about 85MPH in 5th gear - so it could be failing sooner but he's not noticing it if he's sitting at 75 on a motorway for a few hours.

For what it's worth, once the unit fails it will not work again until the car is restarted, so what you're seeing there is typical.

In any case, it's not a terminal problem, units are cheap and easy to replace, and as a last option, you could do what I did and just remove the flaming thing and wire your secondaries open!
 
Thanks for all replies guy decided not to sell me v6 after so ploughing into getting t656mak on road almost there my mates got welding job this week then driveing to m.o.t. station she been stood nearly two years i know of we c wat i get on fail sheet shall we lol

But know no matter what got to get a problem with the lack of a blower no heat a/c sorted to be able to drive without misty windows lol

And a stereo mines gone missing out of boot somewhere
Dont like to say stolen i prob have misplaced
 
Good luck on your journey! There's nothing wrong with the Zetecs - between you and me they are far more tuneable than the V6 - so once you've got her MOT-passable, spend an afternoon with the Burton Power catalogue and Uncle Al (Pid). You couldn't ask for a more knowledgable resource on the Zetec Cougar than him.
 
Ok did hvac test but screen doesnt show any info reading at all so something wrong somewhere i going to give up on this for now

See an electrical friend in a week or two and concerntrate on everything else so now only thing i can c to do left is welding and my mates on that for mot

Since i bought it has has some new tyres all round not the best some cheap and cheerful invovic off camskill rated c for fuel and b for wet grip

I have changed front calipers to v6 and also changed to drilled and grooved discs all round new handbrake cables also some nice new pads all round new clutch and spark plugs a new battery and an ramair cone filter not best i know guys but i like sound got to get an air feed pipe for this one with kit too short flushed and changed antifreeze also oil and filter and fitted new centre plastic stereo surround and hivac unit also rewired stereo where someone cut loom not pretty

Also the code written on stereo dont work so need to source another got leather heated seats to work lol oh fitted complete leather interior

So i still got things to do

Slight leak in boot to solve

My speedo dont light up in dark when i put sidelights on

Blower issue hvac

And i need source a stereo cheaply lol but at moment all out coin start saveing again lol

But next week it be ready to try its mot and then deal with these small couple issues over next couple weeks
Taking a long time but not bad out of my baccy money lol

Just finding time is incredably difficult and does everything these days seems to take me longer than it did five years ago i think it may be im just getting older and lazy lol

But thanks for advice on here guys saved me some time and some pounds here and there honestly
 
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Dan, if you'd like to PM me with the serial no. of your radio I can get the code for you. The serial no. should be on the label on the side of the radio and will be the letter M followed by 6 digits. If the label is missing the serial no. is also etched, albeit faintly, into the metal case of the radio.
 
Soz i not got back with code lol been trying figure out why my car all of sudden runs really bad ��
It turned out to be a tiny break in vacumn hose under air inlet had me baffled as when unplugged maf sensor still run awful so now found and fixed lol this car like a damn curse everything i touch makes something else break mot today c wat happens hope anything to do now will be minor i hope lol be on road soon then heater blower ? Next and stereo of course lol persistance
 
Just failed mot:eek: lol but my mate put it in without welding to c out of curiosity wat it would fail on

The list is
Front lights pattern not visible
Door handle on drivers and passenger side not working correctly
And( ta da) the welding on sill which knew about

So quiet day on weekend this week door handles and lights my mate i hope this time my mate gets welding done during the week

all thats left is a quick visit to my local one stop garage investigate my blower issue i have a driveable ford cougar 2.0 16v zetec (y)
 
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