This is one of our favourite laughs LOL. You're on holiday in the Lake District . . . and you want to go to a pencil museum ? Been to Keswick many times but never been in there - it must be raining really bad for that to happen LOL
What Have You Done to Your Cougar Today?
- Thread starter Axximilli
- Start date
This is one of our favourite laughs LOL. You're on holiday in the Lake District . . . and you want to go to a pencil museum ? Been to Keswick many times but never been in there - it must be raining really bad for that to happen LOL
well...tried to fit some braided brake hoses to the rear today only to find that the new ones have female joints and i need male...doh!
and to top that the steel pipes joints are seized up and gona snap if i even dare to touch em....ahh wheels back on...step away from the car mister.
and to top that the steel pipes joints are seized up and gona snap if i even dare to touch em....ahh wheels back on...step away from the car mister.
Goodridge supply both, DYG had his sorted when they sent the male or female, lol cant remember but it was a few years ago 
I had this with mine and fixed it easily by inserting male-male adapters:
Hey Alan, where do you get these? I have been looking for the last couple of years since having my braided hoses fitted or I should say partially fitted. The garage said they couldn't fit the hoses because of this issue and didn't know where to get the 'male' adaptors from? I wasn't sure of sizes etc. without taking the hoses with me to various places around Exeter. Would be great to know where you found these. Thanks, Tim
Probably from a local garage Tim, or ebay, i can't remember but i'll try to get you a couple.
That would be great Al, if you could. At the moment, I only have the braided hoses fitted to the front, but still have the old pipes on the rear of my coug.
Got my MOT coming up this next month, so need to get a few bits done before hand...Ooh errr....lol!!!
Fitted a new aux. drive belt with some help from my dad (who, despite having just turned 70, is still happy to shrug off the cardy and slippers, pull on an old t-shirt and trainers and muck in and get his hands dirty - I love my dad, I dunno where I'd be without him )
Interesting to tackle another job I've never done before, and pleasing that it went well - even if it did mean cutting half the handle off my new tensioner tool to allow enough clearance! Also noticed there's definately a little play in the idler pulley, so that'll need replacing soon too...
)Interesting to tackle another job I've never done before, and pleasing that it went well - even if it did mean cutting half the handle off my new tensioner tool to allow enough clearance! Also noticed there's definately a little play in the idler pulley, so that'll need replacing soon too...
I'm pretty sure this is the part you need Tim, somebody correct me if i'm wrong on the size. Obviously you don't need 12 but it gives you the part to hunt for.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-BC...f9cf91e&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=401128142777
Well not today specifically but we have confirmed what I feared - all four of my shocks are knackered. The rears have been an advisory before (the old 'light misting of oil') but to be honest there is not much life left in any of them. Fortunately I have a pair of new rears but now I know the likely cause of my suspect handling and vibration at speed. Just need to sort out a set of fronts - hopefully what is on there will get through the MOT and then it looks like more MFSM time.
Vibration at speed could be a number of things, from wheel balance, to driveshaft balance or driveshaft bearing or even the dampers
My Audi has picked up a Vibration at speed, checked the wheels and the balancing weights have fallen off
Back on topic, not my Cougar but Gem's, she was complaining of lack of power and Kangarooing, after the obligatory explanation of it being the Carbon Based interface I stripped down the top of the engine, LIM was black with thick carbon build up like I have never seen before, oven cleaner and a brillo pad and some elbow grease has bought it back up looking new, flushed the UIM with Mr Muscle drain blocker, then put it back together, fabricated a bracket to hold her K&N cone filter in a horizontal position and tested now pulls better through the full rev range, only little issue is when you first start it the engine struggles, quick blip on the accelerator and it settles perfectly so I may have a new TPS to purchase soon
Back on topic, not my Cougar but Gem's, she was complaining of lack of power and Kangarooing, after the obligatory explanation of it being the Carbon Based interface I stripped down the top of the engine, LIM was black with thick carbon build up like I have never seen before, oven cleaner and a brillo pad and some elbow grease has bought it back up looking new, flushed the UIM with Mr Muscle drain blocker, then put it back together, fabricated a bracket to hold her K&N cone filter in a horizontal position and tested now pulls better through the full rev range, only little issue is when you first start it the engine struggles, quick blip on the accelerator and it settles perfectly so I may have a new TPS to purchase soon
Finally fixed my non-folding seats!
Tools required: 10mm socket or spanner, needlenose pliers.
Please note, I have C2 seats. Although I'd be surprised if they differ wildly, I cannot say with absolute confidence that the C1s have the same mechanism.
So, the fold-forward function on both of my seats has been out of action for a while now. In both cases, I pulled the handle at the top of the seat, heard an audible click/snap and the handle went slack and the folding function vanished. With a show only a couple of weeks away, I thought I'd best address the issue, more out of guilt at the thought of my poor Mother in law trying to squeeze into the back past a non-folding seat than anything else!
The patient on the operating table.
First job was to get the seats out of the car. At this stage I had no idea where in the seat mechanism the fault may lie, so it seemed prudent to remove the seats and give myself plenty of space to work.
Slide the seat fully back on it's runners, then undo the front bolts using a 10mm socket. I guess you could probably use a spanner, but I can imagine it being a bit of a faff.
The plastic moulding on the side with the heated seat switch sits quite low, so you'll need to use a ratchet without an extension to fit under it.
Now slide the seat forward on it's runners to expose the rear bolts. It's worthy of note that the pair nearest the central tunnel go all the way through the floor of the car and are prone to rusting in place. Take it easy and use the loosen/tighten/loosen method and you'll be fine, but heave on them and they may snap! If you plan this job in advance, spraying some penetrating oil on them from under the car may not be a bad idea.
Apologies for the poor photo, but this is supposed to show that you can see daylight through the bolt holes once they're out.
Once your bolts are out, remember to disconnect the electrics from under the seat. Don't fret about this, it's all colour coded and the connectors only go together one way, so you'll have no dramas reconnecting them.
One seat removed from car. Note the folding handle hanging slack.
After a bit of looking around the seat and figuring out how it works, I sussed that the problem was at the handle itself. If you look closely near the hinge on this photo, you can just make out two little cables hanging loose. These have nipples on the end, very much like a bike brake cable, and should be located in two recesses in the hinge. The two vertical lines on the hinge are witness marks from where the cable should run.
At this point, you will need to reach for some needlenose pliers. I also recommend having a preparatory brew whilst sourcing a bumper sized packet of patience and an entire lexicon of colourful swearwords.
What you're trying to do is to grip each cable with the pliers, like so...
...and hook the nipples into the hinge so you end up with this. If yours just drops in nicely at the first time of asking, you've done better than I did!
To all intents and purposes, this is job done. Obviously test the function of the handle before you go bolting everything back in and, in finest Haynes manual tradition, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. I put a blob of copperslip on the threads of the bolts, just in case Mr or Mrs Next Owner ever wants to take the seats out again.
Now, with me being me, I simply had to give the car a good vacuum whilst the seats were out...
...and ended the day 70p and one pen richer!
I also nipped up the wobbly centre console that most of us are afflicted with. Simply open up the CD box...
And nip up the screws with a Philips.
Et voila, the finished article. Beer time.
Tools required: 10mm socket or spanner, needlenose pliers.
Please note, I have C2 seats. Although I'd be surprised if they differ wildly, I cannot say with absolute confidence that the C1s have the same mechanism.
So, the fold-forward function on both of my seats has been out of action for a while now. In both cases, I pulled the handle at the top of the seat, heard an audible click/snap and the handle went slack and the folding function vanished. With a show only a couple of weeks away, I thought I'd best address the issue, more out of guilt at the thought of my poor Mother in law trying to squeeze into the back past a non-folding seat than anything else!
The patient on the operating table.
First job was to get the seats out of the car. At this stage I had no idea where in the seat mechanism the fault may lie, so it seemed prudent to remove the seats and give myself plenty of space to work.
Slide the seat fully back on it's runners, then undo the front bolts using a 10mm socket. I guess you could probably use a spanner, but I can imagine it being a bit of a faff.
The plastic moulding on the side with the heated seat switch sits quite low, so you'll need to use a ratchet without an extension to fit under it.
Now slide the seat forward on it's runners to expose the rear bolts. It's worthy of note that the pair nearest the central tunnel go all the way through the floor of the car and are prone to rusting in place. Take it easy and use the loosen/tighten/loosen method and you'll be fine, but heave on them and they may snap! If you plan this job in advance, spraying some penetrating oil on them from under the car may not be a bad idea.
Apologies for the poor photo, but this is supposed to show that you can see daylight through the bolt holes once they're out.
Once your bolts are out, remember to disconnect the electrics from under the seat. Don't fret about this, it's all colour coded and the connectors only go together one way, so you'll have no dramas reconnecting them.
One seat removed from car. Note the folding handle hanging slack.
After a bit of looking around the seat and figuring out how it works, I sussed that the problem was at the handle itself. If you look closely near the hinge on this photo, you can just make out two little cables hanging loose. These have nipples on the end, very much like a bike brake cable, and should be located in two recesses in the hinge. The two vertical lines on the hinge are witness marks from where the cable should run.
At this point, you will need to reach for some needlenose pliers. I also recommend having a preparatory brew whilst sourcing a bumper sized packet of patience and an entire lexicon of colourful swearwords.
What you're trying to do is to grip each cable with the pliers, like so...
...and hook the nipples into the hinge so you end up with this. If yours just drops in nicely at the first time of asking, you've done better than I did!
To all intents and purposes, this is job done. Obviously test the function of the handle before you go bolting everything back in and, in finest Haynes manual tradition, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. I put a blob of copperslip on the threads of the bolts, just in case Mr or Mrs Next Owner ever wants to take the seats out again.
Now, with me being me, I simply had to give the car a good vacuum whilst the seats were out...
...and ended the day 70p and one pen richer!
I also nipped up the wobbly centre console that most of us are afflicted with. Simply open up the CD box...
And nip up the screws with a Philips.
Et voila, the finished article. Beer time.
Last edited:
Nicely done Rich. I said it was a doddle didn't I ...and this is going into the HOW-TO's i hope?
...and this is going into the HOW-TO's i hope?
Nicely done Rich. I said it was a doddle didn't I
Already done mate, already done.
https://forums.ukcougar.club/threads/29553-How-to-Fix-inoperative-folding-seats-(C2)
You know there's a show coming up when you spend the majority of your day off work washing a car that hasn't been past the end of the driveway since the last time you did it!
Wash (Demon Shine snow foam then Meguiar's Gold Class shampoo)
Cut (Meguiar's Deep Crystal paint cleaner)
Wax on... (Meguiar's Gold Class)
Wax off...
And tucked up back in bed!
Wash (Demon Shine snow foam then Meguiar's Gold Class shampoo)
Cut (Meguiar's Deep Crystal paint cleaner)
Wax on... (Meguiar's Gold Class)
Wax off...
And tucked up back in bed!