What Have You Done to Your Cougar Today?

Procomm said:
Aside from the welding what else would Tiger fail the new MOT Regs on, ok you have to do away with HID's for MOT but thats not a huge costly change to make, other than that a well maintained engine and running gear wont fail the new regulations, there are also plenty of mobile mechanics out there that can do the elding for you cheaply, just do the prep work yourself and take someone up on the loan of a vehicle whilst Tiger gets made whole again (pun intended) (y)
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She doesn't actually have HIDs because I took the C2 light route.

The problem is more that you're no longer allowed to have any P-codes stored, and they're going to be testing for them. I've got "Left bank lean" and "insufficient EGR flow" as so many of us do, and by the time Tiger's MOT is due, that's a hard fail. Yes they can be reset, but they reappear immediately.

Plus the welding. That's the biggest problem and one I can't fix myself. Though I guess I could take a few days off work and hire someone? Or drive T's ECO car while she runs Jinxy?

I dunno. I've slept on it now and I think she can be saved, but she's got work that needs to be done aside from the welding and I'm not 100% convinced I want to invest in it if she's destined for the scrapper no matter what I do. Government seems determined to kill us all off and I'm on a downer.
 
Mako said:
The problem is more that you're no longer allowed to have any P-codes stored, and they're going to be testing for them. I've got "Left bank lean" and "insufficient EGR flow" as so many of us do, and by the time Tiger's MOT is due, that's a hard fail. Yes they can be reset, but they reappear immediately.
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Wow I didnt know that...thats going to be a big problem for a lot of us me included.

Im currently sitting on the same codes, EGR can be reconnected for the test but how the hell can we sort out the left bank running lean? Looking around it seems like this code is related to a vac leak or the sensor in the EGR being duff? Maybe reconnecting the EGR would sort that code

Its going to throw up IMRC stuck open as well
 
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I didnt think fault codes made any difference as long as the EML goes off when the engine was started?
I also didnt think they could interfer with the car including plugging a diagnostic machine in?
 
dandamano said:
Wow I didnt know that...thats going to be a big problem for a lot of us me included.
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In fairness, I haven't confirmed that with a proper tester. If true, it will kill pretty much every Pre-C2 Duratec V6. I'm thinking that if I can get the welding done, I might just get Tiger MOTed as early as possible (July) and see what he thinks.

dandamano said:
Its going to throw up IMRC stuck open as well
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Again, I'm not convinced. Perhaps they will only trigger on emissions-related codes? Though that's still utterly stupid since a V6 with a failed EGR actually emits less particulates than a car with that system intact. Same as the Euro-6 standards for trucks.

Frankly it's about money. Tiger's emissions are lower than a 2015 4-banger.
 
My last emissons test, clearly im killing the planet :oops:

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Hopefully it is only a visual check engine management light comes on and goes off, we wont know for sure though until people start getting tested. Either way I wont let the goverment win. They can *insert over 18s comment here* before they get more money out of me with there stupid policies with the facade that they are saving the planet not just trying to line their own pockets
 
I do not think the MOT tester is going to be plugging anything into the OBD port on your car, as long as any lights that come on go off when engine is started you will be just fine. If this is true then each and every one of our cars are doomed.
 
If it passes emissions and the engine light isn't on, no MOT tester will bother checking for codes. Not if they want any business anyway.

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Well I've collected the beast and enjoyed the drive down. There is a drone at speed and to me it doesn't feel very planted at speed (think 70mph), it's all rather skitty. My mate seems to think it's fine but I dunno. Anyway we're going to swap the wheels around and see what that does as the fronts and rears are different tyres.

Mats are in (I see why there were cheap, the locating clip is in the wrong place), and the OBD adaptor I purchased works on my phone, although my tablet wasn't as easy so I may need to change that for the trip. It did throw up a few fault codes which I need to look into later, but the live display of RPM, coolant temp etc was very good. Reading the above posts I'm a little concerned, but nothing I can do about that just yet.

Also I'm hoping (no, praying) I can get the a/c sorted to make the journey a pleasant experience. I'm certain it'll only need a top up.... :oops:

Finally I emptied the boot of stuff, it's amazing the pile of parts I've acquired already for this thing.
 
Procomm said:
Bank 2 running lean is usually indicative of an air leak in the bellows or faulty MAF, I would suggest checking the breather pipe (y)
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The more I think about it, the more I think you could be right about that. I assume you mean the crankcase breathers?

I've had a few instances recently where rolling into a parking space - clutch down and light braking - the anti-stall has struggled and the idle has hunted. This is shortly after coming off the cam, (or to put it another way, ridden hard and put away wet) so it could also be the IACV again. It's not as though I haven't had problems with that sticking before, as that would also allow too much air in. Hmm.

Well, time for a new can of Lockheed solvent at least. My last one went to (temporarily) saving Catbus's starter motor!

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Pid_16V said:
Replaced both inner track rods. Thats it! Job done[emoji3]
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Al, did you have trouble getting the locknuts to release for the track-rod ends? I'm at my wit's (trackrod)end trying to get mine off.
 
Mako said:
The more I think about it, the more I think you could be right about that. I assume you mean the crankcase breathers?

I've had a few instances recently where rolling into a parking space - clutch down and light braking - the anti-stall has struggled and the idle has hunted. This is shortly after coming off the cam, (or to put it another way, ridden hard and put away wet) so it could also be the IACV again. It's not as though I haven't had problems with that sticking before, as that would also allow too much air in. Hmm.

Well, time for a new can of Lockheed solvent at least. My last one went to (temporarily) saving Catbus's starter motor!

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Al, did you have trouble getting the locknuts to release for the track-rod ends? I'm at my wit's (trackrod)end trying to get mine off.
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No bother at all mate, mindyou they have been on/off about a dozen times over the last few weeks. They were tight at first, as they usually are but a bit of brute goes a long way. If you can't get spanners on the track rod or on the end to work against the locknut, use a good set of stilsons and set the spanner in a good locking position. Blowlamp? if you've got one use it on the trackrod end. It will go but be damn careful of your knuckles and shins, yes, i've used foot pounds literally to crack these.
Note: it you're still struggling, get the stilsons on the locknut and just pull against the trackrod end once it hits it's limit of travel.
 
Pid_16V said:
No bother at all mate, mindyou they have been on/off about a dozen times over the last few weeks. They were tight at first, as they usually are but a bit of brute goes a long way. If you can't get spanners on the track rod or on the end to work against the locknut, use a good set of stilsons and set the spanner in a good locking position. Blowlamp? if you've got one use it on the trackrod end. It will go but be damn careful of your knuckles and shins, yes, i've used foot pounds literally to crack these.
Note: it you're still struggling, get the stilsons on the locknut and just pull against the trackrod end once it hits it's limit of travel.
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Thanks Al. Gonna do front ARB bushes at the same time because they're clearly screwed. Just need to hunt the forum for a good supplier or use Powerflex.
 
Wow so in reading the MOT stuff, I don't see what y'all are worried about. If I live somewhere here where I need emissions done its through the OBD port. And has been that way for decades. If you reset the codes and the system hasnt totally reset, meaning back to the point codes appear again they fail you and tell you to bring it back after its drove at least 50 miles. If 2 portions of the system fail you fail. If your downstream O2s have the check engine light on normally you fail.

The rules changing to where they may do OBD testing isnt something to scrap your car over. There's either a code or there isn't. No partial fail. Figure out whats making the code and fix it. Or figure out how to trick the computer into reading right.

All OBD testing means is now you HAVE to do something about it. No more slipping by until fall when the weathers to hot if your MOT is due in the middle of summer. And no more whining about its too bloody cold if a blizzard hits a couple weeks before your MOTs due and somethings wrong.

Ok done with my speach [emoji16]
 
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