Hello from Hampshire

grimisuk

Well-known user
Feb 10, 2015
105
27
Hampshire
Hi everyone My name is Graeme from Hampshire and I've joind up to swat on owning a Cougar. I currently drive a Focus Collection 1.8i which has been fine for the past few years. My missus has a Puma and I love to drive that but its a little to small for me, so i thought what could i have fun in? So here I am and im looking out to buy a Cougar and have some fun. Just not sure wether to play it safe and go for the 2.0 16v or the 2.5 v6. So any recomendations will greatly be received.

Many Thanks

Graeme
 
They are both solid engines, the 2.0 16V unit is very well known and it's widely regarded as a solid and dependable engine, the V6 looks more scary for the uninitiated but it's quite a simple engine and despite it's dubious origin from the good old US of A it's an equally dependable and simple engine. There are no horror stories attached to either of them, both of them perfectly livable-with and robust power units.

But it has to be the V6, there isn't a lot of difference in value between then, the VED is identical for the majority of them and what you loose in a few MPG you'll gain back in a fair bolt of torque and a muted but nice V6 sound. Depends of course what you're after the Zetec at full-tilt sounds like any other fizzy 16v four-banger, the V6 sounds the part wide open and treated gently won't be far behind on MPG, it works considerably less hard during cruising.

I've not driven a 16v Cougar but I did have a 2.0 mk2 Mondeo and whilst it was perfectly adaquate performance wise 95odd bhp/tonne isn't going to slap a massive grin on your face, it's perfectly drivable though and will keep pace with traffic.

The 2.0 16V is a belt driven unit, the 2.5 24V is a chain driven unit, chain failures are vanishingly rare, that said so are "within schedule" belt failures. The wobbles that'll finish off a V6 thankfully tend to claim them fairly early on so a car that's still running x-years later will probably be beyond the worse mechanical failures.

Don't fall in to the trap of thinking a Cougar drives like a larger Puma though, they handle well but they're a comfortable GT that'll make good progress around the lanes, they're not a chuckable "hooligan wagon" like the Puma.

Avoid the automatic would be the best advice, the C4DE is notoriously problematic and you'll need a calendar to calculate spirited runs.
 
Thanks benham for the detailed reply, TBH I'm siding with the 2.5 V6 what the hell i say. So money is in the hand and I'm just frantically looking and reading up about them.
 
Thanks benham for the detailed reply, TBH I'm siding with the 2.5 V6 what the hell i say. So money is in the hand and I'm just frantically looking and reading up about them.
My next bit of advice is not to worry too much about mileage, the V6 is pretty lazy to be blunt and doesn't work very hard, providing it's been looked after they'll last indefinitely.

Rust is finishing these off now, and a tatty Cougar won't cost much less than a nice example - take your time and find one that's not about to written off come the next MOT and check any you buy for advisory notices issued at the last MOT regarding corrosion. It can certainly be fixed but simply there is not enough demand for these to have to settle with a rough example when there are plenty of cherished ones to be had for a few £££'s more.

Structurally the sills are a weak point, the pressed rear subframe assembly is a real issue though, it doesn't affect all of them by any stretch BUT pay special attention to it, getting one repaired or replacing one isn't a half-hour-job!

I'm in agreement, it's not worth messing about with a 2.0 unless you find a special one.
 
Generically, the things to look out for that will cause you a headache are:

1) wishbones - expensive
2) Rear sub frame - common failing point and Ford want over £400 for one.
3) Rust on sills
4) Rust on wheel arches
5) Brakes lines

None of that is cougar-specific of course, but they seem to be the common issues that i have come across.

If you find one with solid sills, a newish subframe and recently done wishbones - that's a great base
 
Don't let them put you off a zetec ive run both and the differance is not as great as you would think The zetec is cheaper to service less oil plugs ect .The v6 is noticeably heavier on fuel I tended to get low twentys or worse with high twentys or better on the zetec As others have advised the condition of the car is more important go for the best you can find a few bucks more will get you a better car
 
Have a v6 x-pack c2 auto, yes its not as quick off the line as a manual and top end is slower but 105000 miles with no issues so far as the trans goes, its more easy to drive in stop start traffic has a sport mode and electric overdrive so you can make it quite fun to drive quicker, i like the c2 better to be honest, it has a nicer interior and i find the front end more modern, stock c2 wheels look better i think to, most of the engine issues seem to have been ironed out by the time the last ones was made.

If your after something to chuck around then the cougar is not that kind of car, 2.0 seem to be very easy to tune, v6 seems more long lived as its quite lazy in stock form, stick shift will give you quicker times but auto is easy to live with everyday, body work seems to stay solid apart from sills, sub frames suffer and suspension does wear.
 
Ive been looking on Autotrader and eBay but just being a novice when it comes to cars with varying milage,price etc Im not sure where to go but i will have a proper look at the weekend and just keep and eye out
 
Hi Graeme, welcome to UKCo. undecided, you really ned to test drive good example of both variants, but always get somebody to check around the car for you if your not sure what to look for. The majority will go for the V6, not for comfort or looks as both are identical, but more for the sound and torque of the V6, I call it Piston envy :LOL:. However, some have tried both and gone in preference of the zetec for various reasons. Personally! I prefer the easier access to the engine bay of the zetec and the "different" sound of a pair of high lift cams out of a dual exit tuned exhaust at full bore :cool::).
Golden rule: Make sure the engine is cold at the test drive, regardless of engine spec before you show any £££'s. You don't want to find the engine rattling after you pay for it.
Have a really good push at the lower rear sill sections (just forward of the front edge of the rear arches) as this is a large box section and condensation builds in that area inside and rots from inside out.
 
Wow thank you everyone for the great welcome and all of your help and hopefully i will find a good looking one as tbh I'm not bothered on the V6 or Zetec. to the C1 or C2 as long as its a cougar as i have set my heart on one now. lol
 
Well their has been a development in the Cougar hunt, and I will be going to veiw one on Saturday. A Green 2.0 Zetec C2 within my price range so fingers crossed it wont be long before I introduce her to you all (y)
 
Welcome to the club

Having owned two V6 Cougars, a Zetec Cougar and a Puma, my only input is this...

The Puma (assuming we're talking the 1.7?) is a cracking car and IMO hands down better than a Zetec Cougar, and certainly faster!
A Zetec Cougar is a fine car but underpowered in my opinion, plus you give away a lot in toys unless you find one that's been upgraded or was well specced from the factory.
 
What sort of toys will the Zetec have ? As long as it has Heated front and rear and the trip computer and air con what else do you need?