New cougar owner needs help!

Hiya, cheers for getting back to me so soon. I assume its a spare and yours is fine? Which one do you have? Ok, what sort of price are we looking at? I am in Devon.
 
I could also do with an idea of how to take off the rear speaker cover section (rear seat) as i have a blowing speaker.

Also what are everyones thoughts on L.E.D lights? Can cougars take them?

Cheers all
 
Hi Damien

You need to remove the rear door card to get the speaker out, two torx screws under the grab panel under a panel that pops out, 2 torx screws at the back near the parcel shelf and two crosshead screws under the carpet

Cougar takes the LED lights just fine, only issue if you get cheap ones it will make your blown bulb warning light come on
 
You can't remove just the speaker cover, it's the whole door card that needs to be removed. It's actually straight forward and you need to get in there to remove the sponges anyway so it's worth doing.

They're also fairly easy to remove. From memory you need the seat base up (a sharp tug up while pushing back, and then remove the screws hidden behind the hand grip next to the door; the cover just pops off with a thin bladed screwdriver. I think there's another screw or two towards the rear, just follow the edge around and remove any. Hex screwdriver bit needed. Then it's just a case of pulling the card off and removing the speaker and sponges.

Replacing the speakers I had to unsolder the connectors and reattach to my replacements, I've seen two types of connector used on these Fords. It's also worth noting that my OEM replacements didn't last long before one blew again, I guess the age can't be ignored bearing in mind I didn't exactly have music blaring at volume.
 
Sam, you need to remove the seat backs as well. It's barely possible to remove the side cards without doing so, but you'll never get them back in securely again. The only additional tool is a T45(?) bit to remove the four bolts on each seat back. Remove the trim clips at the bottom and fold the thin carpet back and you'll see them. You may find that the whole area is glued, so take your time.

You're right that there are T30s that need undoing next to where the parcel shelf hinges. There are also two posi-drive screws that are only accessible once the seat base is out, and they are not visible at all - you have to go through the holes in the carpet and plastic. These are not fun to find, but essentially they are at the top of where the carpet "tails" are.
 
Ah yes, I forgot that part somehow. Not sure how as I'm fairly certain that was when I knelt on a screw hidden under the carpet :cry:
 
Hi Tim, when you said you have a few bits what else do you have please?

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Hiya mate, now I have the cup holder I am awaiting any instruction on how to fit it. Do you know anyone with a rear subframe for sale? i also need a "sump pan" and a small triangular plate from the end of the gearbox....! Mine has split. Any ideas would be goovy. cheers
Hi Damian, sorry for not replying sooner. Don't have any subframe or the like, but I have a full leather interior including door cards (free to a good home), I also have an ST200 UIM and throttle body, as well as an oil cooler. Hope the other guys are able to help you. Cheers, Tim
 
Cheers Tim, I'll probably keep the cloth interior, just cos its so perfect and to be honest i'm not sure what the other things (throttle body/oil cooler) are for. Keep it quiet though as i don't want everybody to think I'm an idiot.

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Thank you for the advice. (what do you call cheap bulbs!!!)Cheers

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I will heed your words sir. Many thanks

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Do you know what.... this sounds like a nightmere! At what point do i remove the wing mirrors! I think ill have to concerntrate on this one. Thanks for your help. Can you send a factsheet lie on telle text........
 
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Removing the card is easier than we've made it sound, I'll try and take a few pics of the one already removed from my scrapper later. It really is a doddle, and as we say you want to get in there to remove the sponges.
 
What Sam said , pop the plastic access panel off once you've removed the door card and remove the sponges and treat the inside of the sills/wheel arch with a rust proofer whilst youve already got the door card off
 
...to be honest i'm not sure what the other things (throttle body/oil cooler) are for. Keep it quiet though as i don't want everybody to think I'm an idiot.

The throttle body is the bit that your accelerator attaches to. The accelerator cable rotates a cam, which causes a metal disk to rotate, widening the opening and allowing more air to flow. The car senses this (via a number of sensors including the throttle position sensor and the mass air-flow sensor) and asks the injectors to add more fuel. The bigger the throttle body, the more air flows, the more fuel is added, and the more power you get. The ST200 is a few mm wider than the Cougar's ST24.

The oil cooler could be one of two things, but I'm not sure what Tim's got. It's either:

a) An extension to the oil system that includes a radiator of sorts. That's racecar technology, but available for the street. Or...

b) A water jacket module from the ST220 - which has the same basic block as the ST24 so it's a straight fit - that runs around the base of the oil filter mount. Calling it a "cooler" isn't quite accurate; your water heats up faster than your oil, so in the early stages of running it actually heats your oil to get it into an effective temperature range and protecting your motor. It's only once the car is getting hot that waste heat from the oil is taken away and shed via the main radiator.

Lastly, nobody here will call you an idiot for not knowing things.


What Sam said , pop the plastic access panel off once you've removed the door card and remove the sponges and treat the inside of the sills/wheel arch with a rust proofer whilst youve already got the door card off

I strongly recommend Bilt-Hamber Dynax in the spray can. It gets everywhere.
 
Second for the Bilt-Hamber here, I'm sure it's why my previous Cougar has survived so long despite many rust repairs. A long lance on the end of the spray can means you can get it deep into the inner sills.

If you need a hand, I'm no expert but I never turn down a trip to the West Country(y)
 
Thanks for the tip on Bilt-Hamber Dynax. I've only ever used Wax-Oyl and while I don;t have a problem with it, if this stuff is better it must be pretty good (y)
 
Wow.....cheers for that, i think i might have understood some of that, but i will keep your post for future ref purposes. I use all Bilt Hamber body care stuff already so that's great. That Dynax stuff, one can be enough to do both sides 'cos now you got me thinking....in for a penny, in for a pound and i might as well do both sides.

thanks again
 
You're welcome, mate.

If you're interested in mechanical stuff and want to learn basic concepts, I strongly recommend hitting up Amazon for "Fundamentals of Motor Vehicle Technology" by V.A.W. Hillier (ISBN 0-7487-0531-7) available for less than £20.

It's a great primer that also explains why things are the way they are, (alongside the companion book "Fundamentals of Motor Vehicle Electronics"), and can give you an insight into what you're seeing in the Mk1/facelift Mondeo Haynes manual.

Of course, you're always welcome to ask here though - some friendly passerby will no doubt answer your question, irrespective of how trivial or dumb you might think it is. It's what we do.
 
I can always cheat and take it to my mechanic old school friend, who is pretty fantastic and very inexpensive. He looked after everything I've ever owned. I do intend to keep my car ages mind so all knowledge is useful (cougar wise). Have to see how successful the speaker thingy is!

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Silly question but is it Dynax UB, UC or S 50.


cheers
 
When I did mine last I used S-50 inside the sills. In the end of the lance is a little plastic piece, this makes the liquid spray out wider so it covers the whole of the inside.
To do the sills pop off the carpet runners (they can be a bit stiff), then insert the lance as far as you can. Then start spraying as you draw the lance back out this should give enough coverage.