If you look on the picture I posted you can just make it out on the leftby where the strut meets the subframe, there is a flat bit on the rear damper that sits on those rubber bits which stops it squeaking 
I highly recommend getting the tank straps of Cougarbob and fitting them whilst the subframe is out of the way, also worth changing the rear anti roll bar bushes as access is unlimited whilst its off the car
I just wanted to give a round of applause for your belt-n-braces approach to supporting the car, with at least two failsafes that I can see.
Much as I like working on cars, and as much as I try not to show it, I'm absolutely terrified of going under one that has a wheel or two off.
Anyway good luck for the rest of the job!
Much as I like working on cars, and as much as I try not to show it, I'm absolutely terrified of going under one that has a wheel or two off.
Anyway good luck for the rest of the job!
S
smithtrevor
Yes your right....in all the car weight is sitting on the ramps directly under the base of the RSM,
there is chunky plate down there so i used that as the main support.
i also have two 7 ton jacks under the mid section of the RSM and the final is my insurance policy
and that is the rear wheels and a piece of 6 x 2 are under the sill (no weight on them it's a just in case),
the ground will give way before they do!
Re the 2 plastic bits...yes I can see there is a clean patch on the rear of the damper so I guessed from
that it was to prevent the damper rubbing the body.
While it 's all clear under there I am going to rub down and under seal the lot, I do intend to replace all the
bushes and was thinking of using Poly bushes rather than rubber (I keep looking on flea bay for a full set).
Any suggestion here or should I stick with like for like.
there is chunky plate down there so i used that as the main support.
i also have two 7 ton jacks under the mid section of the RSM and the final is my insurance policy
and that is the rear wheels and a piece of 6 x 2 are under the sill (no weight on them it's a just in case),
the ground will give way before they do!
Re the 2 plastic bits...yes I can see there is a clean patch on the rear of the damper so I guessed from
that it was to prevent the damper rubbing the body.
While it 's all clear under there I am going to rub down and under seal the lot, I do intend to replace all the
bushes and was thinking of using Poly bushes rather than rubber (I keep looking on flea bay for a full set).
Any suggestion here or should I stick with like for like.
I have heard mixed things about the poly bushes, I have a comprehensive service history of my car prior to my ownership and thousands of receipts and I cant see any sign that the bushes in mine were not the originals, this means they lasted over 80,000 miles so I have gone with normal rubber again. There are plenty of points under the rear of the car that you can use safely to rest the cars weight onto axel stands Chris, I am sure Kully and I will be available to hold the car up for you if you want to get underneath, just make sure the handbrake is on or the car is in gear
Chris, I am sure Kully and I will be available to hold the car up for you if you want to get underneath, just make sure the handbrake is on or the car is in gear
S
smithtrevor
Just an update to where i'm at now with the sub frame change....ordered a pair of SS tank straps of Cougarbob, should have them later this week.
I visited a local Steam Engine supplier today and did a deal on a gallon of RED LEAD, take a look at the pics !!!!
That should wake the MOT man up when he gets this one up on the ramp !!!!!!
http://
http://
I visited a local Steam Engine supplier today and did a deal on a gallon of RED LEAD, take a look at the pics !!!!
That should wake the MOT man up when he gets this one up on the ramp !!!!!!
http://
http://
S
smithtrevor
Good bit of gear, this cat should last into the next century !!
i ended up painting it all the way down to the front wheel arches, inside the front wheel arches
will be tomorrow's job.
i ended up painting it all the way down to the front wheel arches, inside the front wheel arches
will be tomorrow's job.
Put a good smearing of grease on the break cables while your at it. Espestialy where it runs up the side on fuel tank this is where they corrode.
S
smithtrevor
After a 3 week wait finally got my replacement rear sub frame & all the bushes to go with. Saturday will be a busy day under the car.
Thanks to Cougarbob, received the SS tank straps Tuesday. Will post more pics of re assembly if it helps anybody who's thinking of taking on the task in the not to distance furure.:beer:
Thanks to Cougarbob, received the SS tank straps Tuesday. Will post more pics of re assembly if it helps anybody who's thinking of taking on the task in the not to distance furure.:beer:
S
smithtrevor
Finally got around to fitting the new Rear Sub Frame, didn't encounter any issues during the refit and tried to get the lower susp arms as near as damn it to how they were. I have attached some pics of how it looks now with a nice coat of RED LEAD. For anybody who's thinking of doing a change out in the next few weeks / months, make sure you use a couple of bits of 20mm tube to perfectly align the RSF to the RSM of the Body, i used a piece of electrical conduit cut down and 1 piece in each side (see the white tube's in the pics). :stop:Also do not tighten anything to torque (wheel ends), until the car is down it's wheels otherwise there's a chance you will wreck the bushes as they try to twist way more than they should.
S
smithtrevor
To put a close on this thread the Cougar Chassis is now all fixed, took me 3 months & £1,300 inc the cost of the car to complete the job. the last few cuts on my knucles have just healed up and now all the work starts top side (dings,dents & paint). Having gained much knowledge doing the job and from all the members replies in this thread (a million thanks to you all), anybody thinking of taking on the task of rebuilding a Cougar chassis, you know where to ask TS.
having changed your rear subframe mate, it is highly advisable to have your suspension laser aligned and provided you havnt lowered your car get the ride height checked
S
smithtrevor
It was the plan to do @ same time as MOT but failed on front lower ball joint gators, so is booked in for early next week.
thanks
thanks
Iv got this challenge comming up in a couple of weeks. What would you do differently if you did it again?
let someone else do it seriously though just done 2 today and the best advice I can give you is take your time and don't forget to disconnect your abs sensor from in the car rather than at the hub
seriously though just done 2 today and the best advice I can give you is take your time and don't forget to disconnect your abs sensor from in the car rather than at the hub
S
smithtrevor
Totally agree, I took 2 months to do mine but then again it was all a project and I hate watching telly or following her in doors around the shops! If I did it again I would have done it the same way, I replaced all the bushes while it was all down & removed all the surface rust and painted the whole underside of the car with red lead primer. Also replaced tank straps, fuel filter & h/brake cables & painted the exhaust system from the cat back with UHT paint used on boilers!! I wanted to replace the front lower arms while it was all in bits but £220 scared me off, I paid the price in the end with an MOT failure on the lower ball joint rubbers. So the only task I didn't do was the ball joints and that's what failed so if I did it all again I would have replaced just the ball joints on both sides.
The only strong advice I give you is use plenty of Plus Gas on all the threads at least 2 X over a couple of day's, I had no horror stories at all with any of the bolts, all of em came out with a breaker bar. Last but most important make damn sure the car is properly secured, there will be much pulling on some of them bolts, take look at my early post to see 3 lots of stopping it coming down on my head.
Enjoy the trip, when it's all done you will have saved yourself £600 labour and pride in what you achieved!!!!
The only strong advice I give you is use plenty of Plus Gas on all the threads at least 2 X over a couple of day's, I had no horror stories at all with any of the bolts, all of em came out with a breaker bar. Last but most important make damn sure the car is properly secured, there will be much pulling on some of them bolts, take look at my early post to see 3 lots of stopping it coming down on my head.
Enjoy the trip, when it's all done you will have saved yourself £600 labour and pride in what you achieved!!!!
I only bought my cat in January but it failed the mot
a few wks ago due to the rear subframe being rotten,
Ive since got a new cat but i want to use the other as
a project over the winter but so far i cant get a subframe
in the Glasgow area,any info would be welcome guys.
Also Im told parts of the running gear from a mark 2
mondeo would fit the cougar,would this apply to the
rear subframe??
a few wks ago due to the rear subframe being rotten,
Ive since got a new cat but i want to use the other as
a project over the winter but so far i cant get a subframe
in the Glasgow area,any info would be welcome guys.
Also Im told parts of the running gear from a mark 2
mondeo would fit the cougar,would this apply to the
rear subframe??
Yes it will just need to upgrade the arb mount to take the 19mm arb the mondeo uses the 17mm arb
