Easy one tonight, replaced the vent seals behind the rear bumper, turns out both were knackered
That looks so much better, well doneTop, now. Bottom, then.
Got wet and dirty with the back end of Rana. I really wasn't 100% happy with the way the exhaust was mounted, and I knew that the old mounts were destined to fail me an MOT.
I fitted new ones (with great difficulty), forcing the exhaust higher up (had to hack saw some redundant bits of metal out of the way) and they look much much better.
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Gave mine a quick hoover, rinse and shine up - I'm not having her look like Tiger's dowdy sister on Saturday![]()
Where did you get the replacements from?Easy one tonight, replaced the vent seals behind the rear bumper, turns out both were knackered
Picked it up from Mafia HQ with new front ARB bushes ('The Clonk' has finally gone!), crankcase seal replaced, a spot of welding done to the underside and, most importantly, a shiny new MOT.
Nice one Rich.
On the "clonk" issue: Since my MFSM, i've had the same "clonk" just a couple of times since, and it wasn't there previous so today when i replaced the bottom ball joint on DG's O/S front and after i had lowered her back to all fours and settled the suspension, i went up to the turret top mounts from under the bonnet to check on a hunch i had but was never able to check on yours. I found that i could turn the top nut very easily on the O/S but the N/S was quite stiff so, i took the cap nut off the O/S and checked the tightness of the strut nut below and, i was able to tighten it another two full turns
. Back on then with the cap and nut, re-tightened and the top mount was virtually immovable with the spanner. I went to the N/S to check (belt & braces) and that one was slack but only by half a turn.
Outcome of all this: No more "Clonk" so, was this the same issue?
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I'll be honest Al, I've no idea! The horrible 'twang' on lock-to-lock went once we'd reseated the top cap of the strut at the last MFSM but the knocking and banging over bumps sounded for all the world like that which you get from shot rear drop links, only at the front of the car, if that makes any sense?
Several of us on several occasions have physically grabbed the (brand new and genuine Ford) front droplinks though and tried to move them, finding them to be rock solid, so the only thing I could think it could be was the ARB bushes. Only one side got changed at the first MFSM so my suspicion was that either the unchanged bracket was forgotten and not retightened or the disparity in new/old bushes was causing an imbalance.
As I couldn't remember for the life of me which side was changed and which wasn't, plus I was way beyond my comfort zone of ability and needing the car good to go for a sale, I gave Nick a pair of new bushes when I dropped the car in for the crankcase seal and asked him to fit them.
I picked the car up this morning and the clonk is gone. Whether Nick did any work at the top of the struts, I don't know, but he certainly didn't mention it if he did.
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Treated and painted the tunnel and front wheel arches.Changed the clutch complete which was just about down to the rivets! Next up
brake pipe replacement and welding up the front jacking points which have rotted away!! I agree with the posts about if you want to keep these cars alive they need major surgery underneath, have a good poke about under the peeling under seal and in all the nooks and crannies its amazing what you find. Good luck to Topcat, doing a sterling job!!
Nice one Rich.
On the "clonk" issue: Since my MFSM, i've had the same "clonk" just a couple of times since, and it wasn't there previous so today when i replaced the bottom ball joint on DG's O/S front and after i had lowered her back to all fours and settled the suspension, i went up to the turret top mounts from under the bonnet to check on a hunch i had but was never able to check on yours. I found that i could turn the top nut very easily on the O/S but the N/S was quite stiff so, i took the cap nut off the O/S and checked the tightness of the strut nut below and, i was able to tighten it another two full turns
. Back on then with the cap and nut, re-tightened and the top mount was virtually immovable with the spanner. I went to the N/S to check (belt & braces) and that one was slack but only by half a turn.
Outcome of all this: No more "Clonk" so, was this the same issue?