How to fit HIDs.

There's two male spade connecters on the HID set (there was on mine anyway). One black, one Red. Take the plug off the back of the OEM H7 bulb that comes from the loom. Push the black spade into the corrisponding side of the plug where the black wire from the loom goes in. And the red spade goes into the other side where the black and brown wire from the loom goes into the plug.
Although mine's a C2 i don't imagine a C1 can be that different. All there is to remember is to put the two black wires together really.

Believe me.....if i can do it, anyone can....... Honest, cos i didn't have a clue (y)
 
Anyone with HIDs have any problems?

Was driving to my dads last night, overtook a long line of cars along my fave country road......just pulling over in fron of the lead car, put my lights onto full beam and "pop" goes a fuse in my fuse box and all the lights on the front of the car go out :eek6::eek6::eek6:

So I'm doing ....errr....quite a fast speed lets say.....on the wrong side of the road......at night....on a country lane with some corners fast approaching.......with just my sidelights !!!!!

Thanks to knowing the road like the back of my hand I managed to continue for a long enough time to leave a gap between me and the car follwing, before spying the entrance to a farm, slamming on the brakes and pulling off the road quickly !!!

Dropped down the internal fuse box. Checked all the fuses and found a 7.5 amp fuse had gone. Popped in a new one (I always have spares) and away I went, making sure not to you full beam!!

I got the auto electrician to look at it today whilst he was looking at the car not starting problem and he simply said that the handbook makes no sense (I couldn't agree more) and that a single 7.5 amp fuse is not enough to run 2 headlights on full beam. Each side should have it's fuse, so the fact that both sides went when only 1 fuse popped, confused him.
His answer?? Remove the HIDs and go back to standard light bulbs !!!!

Great! Thanks for that.....so the fact they have been working fine for over a year and the fact that loads of members have them fitted without any problems, means nothing huh?? FFS !! :incazzato:

As for the car not starting, he cant help as it needs to go to a Ford dealership as only Ford has the required software to do a full diagnostic on the car ! :incazzato:

So....car is currently at a Fraud...err...Ford dealership in Cranleigh. They will look either late this afternoon or early tomorrow and let me know their result ! aaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhh
 
Now that you have bored us all :LOL::LOL::ihih: Check your PM's and post replies re the interior and fuse box......Hope your well bud(y)
 
No idea.

I paid for the German ones so this sort of thing wouldn't happen. Looks like the Shagmonkey curse has struck again.

What can i do to check? Disconnect 1 light, try full beam and see what happens??

My set said nothing about upgrading the fuse, so i didn't. The auto electrician said I could upgrade the fuse, but that would simply melt the fuse box over time! Doesn't explain why they have worked fine for a year either. Dodgy ballast me thinks...no idea how on earth I get a replacement one of them that's for sure!

Lewy...You have PM bud......now leave me alone to thrown some more toys out of my pram :dita:

:LOL:

Paul
 
Ford dealer rang back this morning. He connected the car up and his computer lit up like a Christmas tree. He said he's never had a car in with so many fault codes !!

I gave him the go ahead for 2 hours work and then to report back to me......just waiting now....
 
Paul, the internal 7.5A fuse thing happened to me, every time I put beams on, a few seconds later it would pop. Apparently it's something to do with Fraud ballsing up the manuals (there's a ****ing surprise!) If you swap the fuse out for a 20A IIRC, that fixes it. There are individual fuses/relays in the aux fuse box but the internal one acts more like a thermal overload type of thing.
 
Paul, the internal 7.5A fuse thing happened to me, every time I put beams on, a few seconds later it would pop. Apparently it's something to do with Fraud ballsing up the manuals (there's a ****ing surprise!) If you swap the fuse out for a 20A IIRC, that fixes it. There are individual fuses/relays in the aux fuse box but the internal one acts more like a thermal overload type of thing.

Cheers for that mate. I'll have a go when I get the car back.

The dealer has ordered a replacement section of wiring loom (£12) which might cure some of the problems.....if it isn't that, then it looks like a new ECU (which is when I go shopping at Lewys :LOL: ).

I'll find out more tomorrow....