The coolant issue is common as muck. All C1's nearly need to be just a smidge over the max mark. The battery light being on could be a wire off or blown fuse from a short maybe when refitting everything. The pump, probably wants bleeding in all honesty. These things won't take half an hour to go through.
The clutch will be the bigger issue. If the slave was refitted and even slightly off sync, it will have split seals and dumped fluid inside the box. That doesn't sound the case if the hydraulic fluid reservoir is full. Could be an air lock perhaps that when the clutch is under pressure is weakening along the line? Maybe the rubber hose was snagged on removal or refit causing it tu "bulge" under pressure when the pedal is down and when the clutch is engaged? Either way it's a box out. Easiest way is indeed to undo the steering column in the drivers footwell and lower subframe complete. You can actually do this without undoing any PAS hoses however it sounds like it might be worth draining the system and refilling?
After all all the efforts gone into the big swap over, it would be a crying shame to break the car for the sake of a few hours exploratory work and accurate diagnosis. You could pull the rubber seal up fron around the bleed nipple on the top of the bell housing and maybe use a USB periscope/camera to have a peek inside the box without pulling it. I'm sure someone might have such a gadget. That short amount of juice and minor effort might change the game? It might save the car or it might absolutely concrete it's fate.
Worth a sleep on
The clutch will be the bigger issue. If the slave was refitted and even slightly off sync, it will have split seals and dumped fluid inside the box. That doesn't sound the case if the hydraulic fluid reservoir is full. Could be an air lock perhaps that when the clutch is under pressure is weakening along the line? Maybe the rubber hose was snagged on removal or refit causing it tu "bulge" under pressure when the pedal is down and when the clutch is engaged? Either way it's a box out. Easiest way is indeed to undo the steering column in the drivers footwell and lower subframe complete. You can actually do this without undoing any PAS hoses however it sounds like it might be worth draining the system and refilling?
After all all the efforts gone into the big swap over, it would be a crying shame to break the car for the sake of a few hours exploratory work and accurate diagnosis. You could pull the rubber seal up fron around the bleed nipple on the top of the bell housing and maybe use a USB periscope/camera to have a peek inside the box without pulling it. I'm sure someone might have such a gadget. That short amount of juice and minor effort might change the game? It might save the car or it might absolutely concrete it's fate.
Worth a sleep on