What Have You Done to Your Cougar Today?
- Thread starter Axximilli
- Start date
...Couldn't find my removal tool so waiting for new ones to arrive...probably turn out I need the flat removal tool instead, but at least I'll be able to get the radio out of my other cougar...thanks for all the info'... 
...and so it came to pass that a four-banger-Duratec abuser did sound these trumpets...
...and so it came to pass that a four-banger-Duratec abuser did sound these trumpets...
Emptied her into her replacement. Left a load of parts in that I just didn't have time to fit and sort her out.
Transferred her to a good friend who doesn't like them in the hope it helps him with his current transport shortage, as well as to understand why I rate them so highly.
I love the 4 litre V8 toy, but already miss how light, tiny, and chuckable the Cougar is.
Referral to UKC made, as well as keeping first dibs if he ever sells her on. I love the Cougar, but with work being so manic at the moment, the last breakdown costing me a weekend, and still waiting for a fuel filler pipe to be posted... I reached the end of my tether.
She's Matt's girl now.
Transferred her to a good friend who doesn't like them in the hope it helps him with his current transport shortage, as well as to understand why I rate them so highly.
I love the 4 litre V8 toy, but already miss how light, tiny, and chuckable the Cougar is.
Referral to UKC made, as well as keeping first dibs if he ever sells her on. I love the Cougar, but with work being so manic at the moment, the last breakdown costing me a weekend, and still waiting for a fuel filler pipe to be posted... I reached the end of my tether.
She's Matt's girl now.
Needs must indeed. He has a couple of weekends ahead to get her straightened out - she needs the time spent and I haven't got it. Onstreet parking only on a narrow hill doesn't help much either.
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Stuck my head in the footwell of the SType to get at a fuse and found a Ford badge staring back at me. Lock and unlock it with the same fob I have on my MK6 Transit. I'm still in a Ford, really. Ford funded the development of this V8, too.
Enough of the right DNA.
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Stuck my head in the footwell of the SType to get at a fuse and found a Ford badge staring back at me. Lock and unlock it with the same fob I have on my MK6 Transit. I'm still in a Ford, really. Ford funded the development of this V8, too.
Enough of the right DNA.
...Latest on this...under the aftermarket surround there were no removal holes, managed to wrangle the kenwood out anyway...discovered that the thieves had broken the heater control panel, all the lugs were broken off, so have replaced it with the one from my spare car, odd to see a chunk of grey in there...I'd forgotten they were a different colour...also discovered that if the lights on the heater controls stop working, there are no bulbs you can change, it's just a PCB in there, so I replaced that too...still have the light for the digital clock to fix...I hope it'll be easier to get at, and most especially a normal bulb!
Thanks again for all the advice...
Not what I've done, but what I'm about to do. Outer track rod end. Noticed the problem last weekend when I was in Stratford (London) of all places, doing work on a club Tomcat.
I saw grease on my wheels and although I assumed it was from the brake change I'd done, I wanted to be certain.
So I got her in the air and whipped the wheel off. Yup - there was movement in the TRE balljoint, so a new one has been bought. Spent the last 6 days wondering at what point this started, and how long it would be before it threw me into oncoming traffic when it failed completely.
Anyway, the replacement actually has a grease nipple! I've never seen that before. Research tells me that I will need to grease the thing on installation and, since I don't have a micro grease gun, will need to acquire a syringe.
Anyone want to dare me to go to Boots and ask them where their heroin section is?
I saw grease on my wheels and although I assumed it was from the brake change I'd done, I wanted to be certain.
So I got her in the air and whipped the wheel off. Yup - there was movement in the TRE balljoint, so a new one has been bought. Spent the last 6 days wondering at what point this started, and how long it would be before it threw me into oncoming traffic when it failed completely.
Anyway, the replacement actually has a grease nipple! I've never seen that before. Research tells me that I will need to grease the thing on installation and, since I don't have a micro grease gun, will need to acquire a syringe.
Anyone want to dare me to go to Boots and ask them where their heroin section is?
I'd dare you as long as it was video evidenced. Some reaction you'd get!Not what I've done, but what I'm about to do. Outer track rod end. Noticed the problem last weekend when I was in Stratford (London) of all places, doing work on a club Tomcat.
I saw grease on my wheels and although I assumed it was from the brake change I'd done, I wanted to be certain.
So I got her in the air and whipped the wheel off. Yup - there was movement in the TRE balljoint, so a new one has been bought. Spent the last 6 days wondering at what point this started, and how long it would be before it threw me into oncoming traffic when it failed completely.
Anyway, the replacement actually has a grease nipple! I've never seen that before. Research tells me that I will need to grease the thing on installation and, since I don't have a micro grease gun, will need to acquire a syringe.
Anyone want to dare me to go to Boots and ask them where their heroin section is?
A knackered TRE won't throw you into traffic though. Just flops about and leaves the steering less positive and more like stirring porridge. Ask me how I know...
Grease in your wheel could be driveshaft more than TRE though - how much of it was there? Is the TRE boot even split?
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I'm T2 diabetic and so a regular at my local Boots. I expect the reaction would be a very quiet, "Maybe cannibis would be better for your sore feet?" Still worth it.
I researched it on Saturday night and all the conventional wisdom agrees with you. Worst case - over a period of time - is odd tyre wear. But I also saw what happens in the rare case where they fail rapidly and it's not pretty. Mr. Safety here isn't going to allow that to happen.
My post was incomplete in detail. The boot isn't split - just dry and worn. The grease I saw was the high-temp stuff that I put on the outside (and inside) of the brake disc bell which got washed out.
Ironically, that harmless leak is what caused me to find something that could've killed me in the long term.
Definitely worth it if known to the counter staff!
I've had knackered TREs on a number of cars, never had one go spectacularly, but it's a £10 and 10 minute job to wind it on and be safer than sorry.
Gotcha. That's a relief. I was going to say I sent an unused & not required brand new driveshaft with NBB - could have CF'd it to you if it turned out to be the source of grease.
I've had knackered TREs on a number of cars, never had one go spectacularly, but it's a £10 and 10 minute job to wind it on and be safer than sorry.
Gotcha. That's a relief. I was going to say I sent an unused & not required brand new driveshaft with NBB - could have CF'd it to you if it turned out to be the source of grease.
If there's something wrong with Tiger, it gets fixed. Like me, a lot of folks here will see symptoms and determine where the actual underlying problem is and that's so very valuable. This was my time to recognise something dodgy before it became an issue.
Appreciated.
...Latest on this...under the aftermarket surround there were no removal holes, managed to wrangle the kenwood out anyway...discovered that the thieves had broken the heater control panel, all the lugs were broken off, so have replaced it with the one from my spare car, odd to see a chunk of grey in there...I'd forgotten they were a different colour...also discovered that if the lights on the heater controls stop working, there are no bulbs you can change, it's just a PCB in there, so I replaced that too...still have the light for the digital clock to fix...I hope it'll be easier to get at, and most especially a normal bulb!
Thanks again for all the advice...
Good to hear you've sorted part of your problem but for future reference you should have found two bulbs in your HVAC control panel.
They are like the one on the right in this photo originally posted by Ricky Smith:
Stepped well out of my comfort zone today - decided I'd have a go at replacing my rear suspension.
So, off with the old:
And on with the new:
Also polybushed the rear droplinks for good measure.
Only had time for a quick test drive, all seems ok for now. And I'm absolutely knackered
So, off with the old:
And on with the new:
Also polybushed the rear droplinks for good measure.
Only had time for a quick test drive, all seems ok for now. And I'm absolutely knackered
Good work Mart.
I was going to crack on with some bits on mine this afternoon but the back muscles weren't going to have it, so it'll have to wait til next week now.
I was going to crack on with some bits on mine this afternoon but the back muscles weren't going to have it, so it'll have to wait til next week now.
Good going Mart, did you have any trouble with the bolts in the top of the wheel arch?
Your going to feel it in the morning from whacking the hub back in place
Your going to feel it in the morning from whacking the hub back in place
Good going Mart, did you have any trouble with the bolts in the top of the wheel arch?
Your going to feel it in the morning from whacking the hub back in place
I'm feeling it now mate!
I had no trouble with the bolts, every one came out with no fuss. Seperating the old shocks from the hubs and then getting the new ones back in was a total ballache though...
You guys do know they make a tool for spreading that clamp on the knuckle apart so they come off easier right?