What Have You Done to Your Cougar Today?
- Thread starter Axximilli
- Start date
Quite surprised that nobody has managed to spot the inherent flaw in this procedure yet. YOU HAVE TO FIT THE TANK FIRST DICK.
- - - Updated - - -
Yes Tim, it is galvanised, along with the axle beams, drag links, drag link housings and tank straps.
From post 4224 Water pump now refitted, fully. New stat fitted and reassembled too. Gained a fine collection of bruises to my fore arms, looks like I've been defending myself from an attack !
Coolant refilled and engine warmed up and topped up some more.
Spun the car around, she's now nose into the garage, jacked up rear end. Dropped the rear exhaust system which exposed both rear box sections. Timber and axle stands fitted and car lowered onto them. Timber fitted on top of the car ramps and slid them underneath the sill seam to catch the car if it goes wrong. Both rear wheels laid under the car rear footwell area and timbers fitted between them and the box footwell section underneath as a third means of support if the other 2 fail.
Disconnected the 3 bolts that connect the rear struts to the car. The longer one with nut was a bar steward took every ounce of my measly strength to but shifted em. Just the 4 bolts fixing the sub frame to the car to crack now. Spent around 20 mins on the first but failed to budge it. Tried sockets in various sizes but couldn't get enough grip. Plan B is I hope is I've got an old offset ring spanner that I can drive on to the bolt head.
Shining the torch into the cavities above the subframe I'm getting optimistic about the brake pipes, they look like they are replacements and are corrosion free from my limited view so far.
So the the fuel tank filler neck. Seen them in the states but silly postage, Anyone ever considered copper piping as an alternative ? Gotta change mine while the subby is down.
Coolant refilled and engine warmed up and topped up some more.
Spun the car around, she's now nose into the garage, jacked up rear end. Dropped the rear exhaust system which exposed both rear box sections. Timber and axle stands fitted and car lowered onto them. Timber fitted on top of the car ramps and slid them underneath the sill seam to catch the car if it goes wrong. Both rear wheels laid under the car rear footwell area and timbers fitted between them and the box footwell section underneath as a third means of support if the other 2 fail.
Disconnected the 3 bolts that connect the rear struts to the car. The longer one with nut was a bar steward took every ounce of my measly strength to but shifted em. Just the 4 bolts fixing the sub frame to the car to crack now. Spent around 20 mins on the first but failed to budge it. Tried sockets in various sizes but couldn't get enough grip. Plan B is I hope is I've got an old offset ring spanner that I can drive on to the bolt head.
Shining the torch into the cavities above the subframe I'm getting optimistic about the brake pipes, they look like they are replacements and are corrosion free from my limited view so far.
So the the fuel tank filler neck. Seen them in the states but silly postage, Anyone ever considered copper piping as an alternative ? Gotta change mine while the subby is down.
Dick..............................................................you have to fit the tank first............
well someone had to lol
As for the handbrake cables, release the handbrake arm to vertical so you can release the ratchet mechanism, gives you loads of play
well someone had to lol
As for the handbrake cables, release the handbrake arm to vertical so you can release the ratchet mechanism, gives you loads of play
Looks good D1CKL, cracking arb mountings, have replaced mine too in preparation for uprated ARB. What dia is that one ? Tried to order one from USA but no response to my enquiries.
It's a 21mm.
- - - Updated - - -
They are quite thick material and if you give it a good wire brushing using an angle grinder and twisted wire brush wheel to get it back to bare metal then give it a couple of coats of Bilt Hamber hydrate 80 a couple of coats of Zinc Galv primer and a top coat of Hammerite, it will be as good as new. That's what I done with mine.
Came back from holiday, went to start - dead as a dodo.... called AA out, Alty is good and healthy (phew!) Battery has gone...
£110 with a 5year guarantee, started her up and Dam... Ive missed that sound
£110 with a 5year guarantee, started her up and Dam... Ive missed that sound
Because that would have been clever...
Ran out of time after unpacking etc... but the wife has her eyes on a Q7, so that could scrap any plans I did have I know my place
Been neglecting the cleaning recently - just not had the time - so a warm 2-bucket wash followed by a coat of Poorboy's Black Hole.
No further bodywork horrors discovered and treatment to the OSR arch seems to be holding, so no panic there either.
No further bodywork horrors discovered and treatment to the OSR arch seems to be holding, so no panic there either.
I like good news!
It's not over. It will never be over. The trick is to keep on top of it and not be overwhelmed.
You and Paul Shirtyzeus have done her a great service and I appreciate that - I have a great basis to work from.
Managed to crack the rear pair of subframe bolts. I cut into the flange at base of the bolt head with the angle grinder which heated things up nicely. Hammered a 9/32 offset ring spanner onto the rusty remains of the bolt head and after wacking it with a lump hammer managed to get it to move. Same treatment worked on the second bolt but the spanner did crack under the grief from the lump hammer. A second spanner was brought into use and again managed to get it turning.
The front two are proving more tricky, not enough room to get the grinder in there. Attempts to free it off with a 15mm socket hammered on and a 600mm long bar had no effect. I'm wondering whether to put the grinder through the subby around the bolts which will at least let me drop it off out of the way and fight with the bolts without it being in the way. Yes I do enjoy these challenges.
The front two are proving more tricky, not enough room to get the grinder in there. Attempts to free it off with a 15mm socket hammered on and a 600mm long bar had no effect. I'm wondering whether to put the grinder through the subby around the bolts which will at least let me drop it off out of the way and fight with the bolts without it being in the way. Yes I do enjoy these challenges.
