The two RHD versions I've owned previously haven't had the wiring/connectors in place.
What Have You Done to Your Cougar Today?
- Thread starter Axximilli
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The two RHD versions I've owned previously haven't had the wiring/connectors in place.
Well that stinks... all my LHD versions have had the wiring just not the relay, And I believe theres sensors or something in the system not totally sure l, there's enough if it to make the lights work if you plug a relay in. Guess that's another of our differences.
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At the time no RHD drive countries had regulations demanding drl's. In Europe it was only Scandinavian countries that had to have them, all LHD.
Im pretty sure the reason ours are like it is because of the Canadian market
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Are we talking about the outer marker light positions on the C2 units?
If so, I can confirm that the C1 car lacks the wires and the relay slot is dead (there's nothing behind it). So I hooked my supposed DRLs up to the sidelights (inside the light units themselves) since I always run with my sidelights on and I liked the quad-lamp look.
C1 light units? I have no idea.
If so, I can confirm that the C1 car lacks the wires and the relay slot is dead (there's nothing behind it). So I hooked my supposed DRLs up to the sidelights (inside the light units themselves) since I always run with my sidelights on and I liked the quad-lamp look.
C1 light units? I have no idea.
No Chris, not the C2 marker lamps which, by design, are wired to come on with the side-lamps.
On both C1 and C2 LHD vehicles there is an empty relay slot for the Scandinavian and Canadian drl's which, when activated, turns on the dip beams at a reduced brightness as soon as the ignition is turned-on.
It appears no RHD vehicles got the wiring and connectors in the bottom of the fuse box to accept the relay.
On both C1 and C2 LHD vehicles there is an empty relay slot for the Scandinavian and Canadian drl's which, when activated, turns on the dip beams at a reduced brightness as soon as the ignition is turned-on.
It appears no RHD vehicles got the wiring and connectors in the bottom of the fuse box to accept the relay.
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Off Topic posts moved here:
https://forums.ukcougar.club/threads/29351-90s-Mustang?p=575690#post575690
https://forums.ukcougar.club/threads/29351-90s-Mustang?p=575690#post575690
I did have interest enough to vaguely remember what the 1989-1993 (and possibly the 94-5 and 96-7) Ford Thunderbird (hence Cougar 7th-gen) had, which was Canadian-market cars light up the full-beam bulbs through a resistor when driving.
So obviously, the 'wiring' is there, since it is simply the same wiring as the full-beam, albeit through more circuitry/relays.
The Thunderbird with illumination pack had an incredible set of features,
So obviously, the 'wiring' is there, since it is simply the same wiring as the full-beam, albeit through more circuitry/relays.
The Thunderbird with illumination pack had an incredible set of features,
...continued
The final result with A2 stainless replacement low head hex M3 bolts in place, except for fitting new badges :-
Today I made the most of the nice weather and cracked on with the scrapper. Managed to remove the steering wheel (which means all of the cruise elements are now off), the interior switch panel (might hack up for a double din head unit), the upper light panel / sunroof switch bits, front seat belts, fog lights, the under bonnet fuse box and (best of all) the alternator.
What a pain that was! Even with the various instructions on here I was swearing, convinced I missed another bolt (the 'L' bracket had been done at this point) until I just got a cold chisel and gently tapped it down from the bottom. Expecting it to pivot and expose the missing bolt, to my surprise the whole thoung dropped out. That's now been put to one side along with the a/c compressor, with a future refirb planned to have a spare on the shelf. Just seems a prudent thing to do.
I'm now waiting on my mate to arrange the removal of the engine block which he's after, before tackling the rear end. I'm reluctant to get that up in the air whilst the engine is balanced on blocks of wood, one engine mount and the exhaust.
What a pain that was! Even with the various instructions on here I was swearing, convinced I missed another bolt (the 'L' bracket had been done at this point) until I just got a cold chisel and gently tapped it down from the bottom. Expecting it to pivot and expose the missing bolt, to my surprise the whole thoung dropped out. That's now been put to one side along with the a/c compressor, with a future refirb planned to have a spare on the shelf. Just seems a prudent thing to do.
I'm now waiting on my mate to arrange the removal of the engine block which he's after, before tackling the rear end. I'm reluctant to get that up in the air whilst the engine is balanced on blocks of wood, one engine mount and the exhaust.
Good work mate. Those blessed alternators eh?
Had a look earlier at the N/S rear flexi hose on the Zetec - doesn't really seem to be coming into contact with anything but I moved the large rubber doughnut around so its that that will touch the shock first if anything. I did consider zip-tying it to the copper brake pipe but reasoned that the plastic tie would probably chafe through the hose in time.
Had a look earlier at the N/S rear flexi hose on the Zetec - doesn't really seem to be coming into contact with anything but I moved the large rubber doughnut around so its that that will touch the shock first if anything. I did consider zip-tying it to the copper brake pipe but reasoned that the plastic tie would probably chafe through the hose in time.
Good work mate. Those blessed alternators eh?
LOL Yeah - I think I might've waited to get that off once the engine is hanging from a crane...
That's exactly what the donut is for. I'm not sure if I'm picturing your ziptie solution correctly, but something leads me to believe that suspension travel would cause the ziptie to put stress on the lines?
::Edited to add:::
Dabooka said:
When you get the engine out, have a look at the main bracket that the alty mounts to. Where the bolts pass through, there's an insert or cuff. The position of these in the bracket can sometimes be a bit inexact, and grip hold of the alternator mount points. Tiger is like this.
Thats why I decided against in the end mate. I even went as far as to actually put the tie in place, then reasoned it was a stupid idea.
Nice just to have it back though!
Nice just to have it back though!
Haha - Don't wake the neighbours John, they won't thank you for it
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A good solid wash and detail from eastern European people. And then one of them - bless him - said, "We have lifted paint on your right side. We are not responsible my friend. Has this car been rebuilt?"
Yep. Don't you worry - it's perfectly fine and okay, it's partly back to the galv in places. Her time has come to get cosmetically fixed and I don't hold anything against you guys. I'd rather you strip off all the salt and show me what I'm dealing with, and that's why I was there today.
Well, that and the pine needles in the boot.
If you want to know, the galved bits are just fine and the sills/rails are buttered inside. But the welds themselves are starting to rust outside where I just shot them with engine black. Fine, time to do what Dan did and hit the offside with proper paint which is the whole damned point.
Yep. Don't you worry - it's perfectly fine and okay, it's partly back to the galv in places. Her time has come to get cosmetically fixed and I don't hold anything against you guys. I'd rather you strip off all the salt and show me what I'm dealing with, and that's why I was there today.
Well, that and the pine needles in the boot.
If you want to know, the galved bits are just fine and the sills/rails are buttered inside. But the welds themselves are starting to rust outside where I just shot them with engine black. Fine, time to do what Dan did and hit the offside with proper paint which is the whole damned point.