What Have You Done to Your Cougar Today?

Will do Al (y).

I had a good experience of that this afternoon, it was a right royal pain getting sockets seated on some of them. Trying to remove the ABS sensor from the hub was a grand example, I'm still not quite sure what size bolt it was supposed to be.

Edited to add, also confirmed the spring is snapped too so a decision to be made there at some point. Quite a few options to consider.
 
Well I got it off (but it won't be going back on) but the sensor won't detach. Didn't really look into it too much to be fair.


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When I did my rear knuckles, the only way to get the ABS sensors out was to bash them out with a hammer and drift. When I replaced with the new ones, I drilled the hole out by 0.5 mm and packed the sensor in with graphite grease.
 
As Dick said the only way you'll get it out is to bash it out and fit a new one.

I had to file out the hole on mine too when putting a new one in
 
Went to install a pair of LED foglights.

Guess what? They're too wide, (or too long, depending on how you look at it). See, inside the foglight body, the lower part has a flange that the bulb is supposed to sit above. Ordinary H3 incandescent? No problem. SMD LED kit? Too wide.

I've since gone back to Amazon and had a look, and it seems all of them have quite a large width.

Anyway I don't want to give up - and decent foglights are a neccessity around here - so I'm going to get in there with a hacksaw and a Dremel and get things done.
 
Well following on from the (as always) excellent advice I have received, after work I thought I'd see if I could finish off what I started.

Result! Rear hub now removed (thanks Matt) with the two uppermost bolts coming out relatively easy. Ended up removing the ABS sensor by unplugging the connector under the rear seat, helped but the fact my interior isn't really in, and I'll worry about getting it out at a later date. I even managed to remove the carrier Torx bolts without rounding them off, so clearly I'm now officially some kind of engineering demi-god! A couple of gratuitous pictures;

Strut.jpg

Now I know nothing about how these work, but should I be able to push the top of the shock down, fairly easily? It does slowly return, but I assumed they'd be really quite stiff? I could post a vid tomorrow if I'm not describing this well.

Next was the spring. I was thinking I may need to send this into work and get it x-rayed for fatigue or fractures, what do you chaps think? Worth doing?

Zebedee.jpg

I assume the fact the bottom half dangles when I hold it up is a bad thing right?! In all seriousness do I now need to remove the 'top' of the mount somehow I haven't had a look as I had to pack my stuff up, but I figure it just needs removing somehow.

Again, thanks for the help getting me this far, hopefully the weekend will have me remove the other side, the arms and sub frame. (y)
 
As the rears aren't under so much pressure as the fronts, yes you can quite easily press them down maybe a couple of inches. You'll notice just how slack the spring is in its seat, that's normal whereas the fronts are very tight and always need spring compressors.
 
The top mount looks passed its best as well. While it’s all stripped down might be a good idea to replace the lot both sides mate!


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Cheers Al.

I might just pop a short vid up anyway, for piece of mind. I think they'll be fine though.

I had always intended to refurb and replace mine as they're knacked and an advisory, but if they're looking borked I'll just have to get replacements. They are after market (Eibachs) so not original. Might need to replace the springs though, not sure that one's going to get to see any future action.

Are the top mounts just the plastic bit or the 'plate' too? I'll happily replace them if knackered and I can get new ones. I know the rubber bits that sit above are replaceable but otherwise my knowledge fails me.
 
If the top plate is solid it won't need replacing. It'd be an idea to give it a good clean up though and a thick coat of paint before it goes back. Tbh, what i can see of the gaitor looks ok to me so no need to replace that unless it's torn etc. Are you renewing everything due to the broken spring Sam? If the shocks are good and you're changing all back to standard, i am looking for spare eibach parts ;)
 
Yeah that spring only has one place left to go...the bin :LOL:

Shock sounds okay Sam, you should be able to push it down by hand and it will slowly creep back up

The top mount is the piece where the two 10mm bolts go though, the seat (where the spring sits) is seperate.

The top mounts are cheap you might as well replace it, the seat a good treatment of kurust and paint will be as good as new
 
Spent half an hour swapping out the tinted rear lights for standard ones in a vain attempt to impress the MOT man on Friday.
A minute each on the rears and 28 minutes on the 3rd light. I've said it before and I'll say it again, if I ever find the bloke who designed that fitting he is gonna get it! :cautious:
 
I think that some people just replace what they need to while they're in there. Been there, done that because I was stupid. The logic is that parts have a cost associated with them so why replace something you don't have to?

And I get that, but honestly, while you have everything dismantled, why not replace everything that needs it?

If anyone needs help from me and that help requires additional parts? If I trust and respect you I will never leave you adrift.
 
dandamano said:
The top mounts are cheap you might as well replace it, the seat a good treatment of kurust and paint will be as good as new
Click to expand...

Just don't buy topmounts that are too cheap :). I've made that mistake before....

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jongibbon said:
Spent half an hour swapping out the tinted rear lights for standard ones in a vain attempt to impress the MOT man on Friday.
A minute each on the rears and 28 minutes on the 3rd light. I've said it before and I'll say it again, if I ever find the bloke who designed that fitting he is gonna get it! :cautious:
Click to expand...

I went to that trouble last year. Couldn't be bothered this year, so sent it in with the tinted units still fitted, and it actually passed. One of those "depends on the tester's mood" things, I think.
 
Ive never bothered swapping out the third light for the MOT he hasnt noticed..yet :LOL:

Spent couple hours taking off the MK3 brakes and refitting the standard ones..not a total loss as noticed the standard pads where pretty low so swapped them out from spares

Then made a start refrubing the C2 lights...still to be finished but coming along

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