What Have You Done to Your Cougar Today?

Pid_16V said:
Iirc Chris, the repair was covered with rattle can paints? Maybe get some of the good stuff on it next time.
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Yes, as per post #5840, I shot her with engine black for basic cosmetics. And that's the paint that lifted when she was washed because all I did was layer on some zinc to protect the welds, and some piano black so it didn't look like I was driving Frankenstein's monster.

My next step is to put a sanding pad on the DA, clean up the entire area, apply filler where need be, and fix her up.

Not sure whether I'm going to take her to Tony (ADPanelcraft) because I have no intention of turning her into a show car, but I will get a better job done as the weather improves. She lives outdoors since Jinxy occupies the double garage, so that might well be after Coombe.

Don't care. That's why she wears the "Wearing my scars with pride" decal because she has had 7 years more life than she expected or was due. Frankly I'm more worried about the 147,500 miles on her clutch.

:edit: Al, I'm not driving to Mansfield to wash your car, but don't you go hurting yourself.
 
I agree - my back is precious enough without risking it by doing dangerous things like car washing:LOL:

Don't worry a thing about the clutch, we've got much recent experience in gearbox removal and Mick on hand to ensure the clutch plate is the right way round(y)
 
When I had to replace the engine in my car it had covered 130K miles approx. When we stripped the gearbox off we had a look at the clutch and it looked like new. I had had the car from 60K miles and never changed the clutch. So, it all depends on how well you drive.
 
I should like to add to Dick's comments, that I personally think that driving well does not necessarily mean slowly. I believe that apart from the obvious unnecessary 'driving on the clutch', that its how fast you release it that mostly does the damage by ripping away at the lining. Progressive release of the clutch including between 2nd & 3rd gears to avoid 'jumping', and even when coming down thru them, I believe actually preserves the lining and 'polishes' the flywheel. Anyway, I have never worn thru clutches, its normally oil seals and dodgy release bearings that have led to the downfall of mine...
 
I think I've changed 2 or 3 in 10 years. One was because I was doing an engine swap and changing the flywheel and such items. Replaced it with a super cheap clutch off ebay and lets say that cheap isn't better in this case. It lasted about 5K miles and then a Nitrous incident did it in [emoji16]
 
Nothing on my own but I did get a couple of hours on the breaker, with assistance from my lad. Managed to remove the cam covers, cams and a few other bits and pieces. I found it all rather interesting, and have no idea how on earth I'll manage this on mine; as we all know it's one thing taking things apart and another all together putting it back together!

Next is the heads (?) but clearly I need to remove the chain cover which seems difficult. I think I've got all of the bolts out around the edge, and guess I now need to remove the idlers and tensioner?

I did intend to smarten up the covers and swap them but now I'm not so sure. Rocked my confidence a wee bit (but then again I have to do one of the gaskets anyway, so.....).

Gah!

Edited to add;

What's the little widget on the right hand (n/s) edge of the rear block? It's attached to black plate and has an arrow on stating 'Up', I think it had vac pipes and a wired connection. I can upload a pic later if it's needed.
 
I'd need to go and have a look in my own engine bay, but I'm pretty certain that it is.

Obviously it doesn't do anything if you have your EGR blocked, (as does Tiger, who loves telling me all about it) but it's very important to maintain the integrity of the vacuum of course.

Incidentally, curse Ford for using a single vac system for climate control, EGR, fuel pressure regulation... This was a hugely retrograde step in an era where electrical actuators were so much reliable.
 
Which means it's the horrible swine that keeps tattling to my ECU that the EGR is "blocked".

I wish I knew how to provide false data from it because I don't like P-Codes. :whistle:
 
Hmm, so if I were to block off my EGR (which I am considering) I'd still be getting error codes? I assumed it just merrily carried on none the wiser but I guess that isn't the case.
 
Its not a Cougar if you dont have stored in the ECU at least 2 out of the 4;

EGR Flow Restricted
IMRC Stuck Open
IMRC Stuck Closed
Bank 1 Running Lean
 
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